Ok since the vet ruled out a UTI, FUS or cystitis. Correct? If not NEW VET.
And you can not do anything bevahioraly till medical is fully ruled out.
See below about medical problems
There is a difference urination is general squatting and then on the floor.
Spraying is usually the wall or higher up. There is a difference. One is
usually medical the other behavioral
How often do you clean the cat box. Some times cat want a clean box every
time. How many boxes do you have generally the rule is 2 boxes per cat and
never near the food and water dishes or in a high traffic area
We assume to go with behavioral but I would go back to the vet since it has
been awhile . Ps what did your vet say when you told them this. Some vets
are not the greatest and it might be time for a new vet.
You got a serious problem her and most is the fault of letting it be. The
urine in the other room has more in likely soaked all the way thru the dry
wall. It will have to professional removed or if you are lucky
professionally cleaned. Close the room off if you can.
When a cat goes back to the same spot there is still a scent there. When
you laid carpet down you might have scrubbed your self but cat urine can
soak thru concrete.
You can get feliway to help with the markings.
You can put the litter box there and see if they go somewhere else
Removing Urine Odor
For fresh urine: clean the spot with any good carpet shampoo (Spot Shot is
one). Then soak it with plain old club soda, leave it for about ten minutes
and blot it up.
If the urine has soaked the pad and the floor below that, it will be
difficult to remove the odor regardless of what you use.
To find spots if you're not sure where they are, get a UV (b) lamp that has
the filter built in (to eliminate any remnant visible light). Urine
fluoresces in "black light." You can get them at hardware stores. There are
also UV lamps in hobby stores and places that cater to spelunkers and
rockhounds, but they're more expensive. The UV source is safe as long as you
use the longwave lamp and not the shortwave lamp used for tanning.
Enzymatic products
Products that remove odors: Nature's Miracle (carpet, has 800 number);
Simple Solution (carpet and other items); Outright! (carpet); Resolve
(carpet, perhaps other items); Odor Mute (originally for deskunking dogs,
has other applications, leaves white residue, works on concrete). Odor
Abolish, by Endosome Biologicals, may also be useful. These products use
enzymes to break down the odor causing compounds in urine and feces, and are
quite effective.
When using enzymatic products, it is important to use freshly diluted
enzymes, let it soak in as deeply as the urine has penetrated, and *keep the
area warm and wet for 24 hours*. Chemical reactions, including enzymatic
reactions, go faster at higher temperatures. Unfortunately, most enzymatic
reactions don't do well much over 102F (38-39C)-- so not too hot. Try
covering the area with towels soaked in plain water after applying the
enzyme, then a shower curtain or other plastic over that to make sure the
area stays moist.
The enzymes in laundry products are the same as those in the expensive
odor-killing products, but they cost less than 1/3 as much. They work just
as well. Biz is one product. You'll find it in your grocery laundry section
with the pre-soak laundry stuff. Remember, you have to soak the area and
then cover it to keep it from drying out. The smelly area must be wet with
the enzyme for 24 hours or more.
Launderable items
On launderable items: put in the washing machine with a cup of vinegar and
no detergent, then wash again as usual.
Concrete
If you have concrete (eg, in the basement) into which urine has been soaked,
this can be difficult to remove, as unsealed concrete is very porous. You
will have to neutralize the urine and then seal the concrete properly. A
specialty cleaning service is probably the best way to properly neutralize
the urine in the concrete. Vinegars and other cleaners may help, but only
temporarily. Odor Mute is reputed to work on concrete. Improving the
ventilation may also help. In extreme cases, pouring another 1/4-1/2 inch
layer of concrete over the original concrete will solve the problem.
Hardwood floors
Hardwood floors that have been stained with urine can be difficult to clean.
First treat with an enzyme-based product such as Nature's Miracle to remove
the odor. You can find wood bleaches and stains at your hardware store: you
may want to consult with one of the employees on what is available. You will
need to remove any varnish or polyurethane from the area, sand it down a
bit, bleach and/or stain it, and then apply the protective coat. There are
also professional companies you can consult. In severely stained cases, you
may have to replace the wood.
Spraying
Some cats start spraying in the house. You will want to first rule out any
medical causes, such as FUS or cystitis. Sometimes it is useful to
distinguish between spraying (which winds up on walls) and urinating (which
is generally on the floor). Spraying is more often a behavior problem and
urination is more often a medical problem. It is best to check with a vet
first. If the problem is medical, then you will need to simply clean up the
odor after the problem is treated, otherwise you will need to try some of
the behavior modification outlined below (and you'll still need to clean up
the odor).
You must remove the odor from items that the cat sprayed on to prevent the
cat from using the same spot again later. The ammonia smell tells the cat
that this is an elimination spot, so never use ammonia to try and "remove"
the odor! See (Removing Urine Odor).
Cats sometimes spray to mark their territory so sometimes an area for your
cat that other animals cannot go to will help. Keeping the litterbox
immaculate will help in other cases.
Sometimes cats pick small throw rugs with non-skid backing to urinate on.
This is caused by an odor from the backing that somehow tells the cat to
urinate there (probably an ammonia-like smell). Cat-repellent sprays or
washing the rug may help; you might just have to get rid of that rug
MEDICAL PROBLEMS:
urinary bladder inflammation
FUS
Bacterial infections
trauma
calculi (bladder stones)
tumors
polydipsia/polyuria
(excessive water volume consumed and urine voided: upper water intake for
cats is 1oz/lb; most cats drink considerably less than this)
diabetes insipidus
diabetes mellitus
kidney disease
liver disease
adrenal gland disease
pyometra (pus in the uterus)
hypercalcemia (high blood calcium)
you can read the rest here
http://www.fanciers.com/cat-faqs/behavior.shtml
There is a lot more going on as you can tell
<cabriogirl.RemoveThis@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1191506331.861867.47150@k79g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
>I have a 9.5 year old male cat. Three years ago, we moved into a newy
> built house. We were the first residents in the house. Soon, he
> started urinating in the corner of the dining room (there has never
> been any furniture in that room, it is quite empty). I took him to the
> doctor to rule out any medical issues. I used Nature's Miracle, but
> to no avail because he would keep urinating in the room. Soon, the
> urination spread along the two adjoining walls of the room. There
> seemed to be nothing I could do to stop it, I even tried other
> products to remove the odor. Since I was not using the room, after
> awhile I gave up. I did not notice whether or not he continued to
> urinate in that room.
>
> Recently my boyfriend and his 3 year old male cat moved in. We
> followed proper introduction procedures for the cats, and they get
> along well. They share 2 litterboxes. We wanted to move in his
> dining room furniture, but he smelled the cat urine in the dining room
> and suggested we take care of that issue first. I hadn't seen my cat
> urinate in the room for quite some time (doesn't mean he had stopped),
> but the smell wasn't as strong as it had been at one time so I assumed
> it was older urine causing the smell. We tried professional carpet
> cleaning with special enzymes for pet odors. That didn't work, so I
> had the carpet and padding replaced in that room and the adjoining
> living room to preserve the same carpet color in both rooms. I
> scrubbed the floors underneath the old pad with nature's miracle and
> let it sit for a few minutes prior to the new carpet being laid down/
> Anyway, that was on Monday. One of the cats (I assume it's mine) has
> started urinating in the original corner on the new carpet. I am at
> my wit's end and don't know what to do. How can I get him to stop
> urinating in that room?? Please help.
>
>
>
> CG
>
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