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A matter of timing

 
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Marie

External


Since: Jun 08, 2004
Posts: 10



(Msg. 1) Posted: Thu Jul 01, 2004 3:55 am
Post subject: A matter of timing
Archived from groups: rec>pets>dogs>behavior (more info?)

Summer is here, which means that there is a constant presence of kids and
dogs in the park behind our house, which of course is leading to constant
barking from Macula.

I'm trying to teach her that if she barks, she comes inside. So when she
goes out she wears a leash, and when she barks I go out to retrieve her.

Here's the problem: as soon as she sees me coming, she stops barking,
droops her head and (if I don't stop approaching her) starts towards the
door on her own. If I stop and just watch her, she stands there drooping
until I turn away, at which point she starts barking again. I'm thinking
the timing is wrong here: that she's not associating my coming out or her
fun ending with the barking she's been doing before.

Whaddya think?

Marie

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The Puppy Wizard

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Since: Jul 01, 2003
Posts: 3494



(Msg. 2) Posted: Thu Jul 01, 2004 4:21 am
Post subject: Re: A matter of timing [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: rec>pets>dogs>behavior, others (more info?)

The Amazing Puppy Wizard thinks you're INSANE.

"Marie" <mmcw.DeleteThis@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:FWLEc.6$LgR.3@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
> Summer is here, which means that there is a constant presence of
kids and
> dogs in the park behind our house, which of course is leading to
constant
> barking from Macula.
>
> I'm trying to teach her that if she barks, she comes inside. So
when she
> goes out she wears a leash, and when she barks I go out to
retrieve her.
>
> Here's the problem: as soon as she sees me coming, she stops
barking,
> droops her head and (if I don't stop approaching her) starts
towards the
> door on her own. If I stop and just watch her, she stands there
drooping
> until I turn away, at which point she starts barking again. I'm
thinking
> the timing is wrong here: that she's not associating my coming
out or her
> fun ending with the barking she's been doing before.
>
> Whaddya think?
>
> Marie
>
>

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Shannon

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Since: Jun 22, 2004
Posts: 7



(Msg. 3) Posted: Thu Jul 01, 2004 9:24 am
Post subject: Re: A matter of timing [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: rec>pets>dogs>behavior (more info?)

Marie -

Does she bark when you're out with her? If so, you can improve your
timing that way - either grab her attention right when she starts, and
reward her silence, or possibly catch her before she starts. We do that
with Guinness when he barks at new neighbors - stay out with him, and
call him over when he barks. He gets used to them much more quickly
this way, and eventually will stop barking at them.

-Shannon

Marie wrote:

>Summer is here, which means that there is a constant presence of kids and
>dogs in the park behind our house, which of course is leading to constant
>barking from Macula.
>
>I'm trying to teach her that if she barks, she comes inside. So when she
>goes out she wears a leash, and when she barks I go out to retrieve her.
>
>Here's the problem: as soon as she sees me coming, she stops barking,
>droops her head and (if I don't stop approaching her) starts towards the
>door on her own. If I stop and just watch her, she stands there drooping
>until I turn away, at which point she starts barking again. I'm thinking
>the timing is wrong here: that she's not associating my coming out or her
>fun ending with the barking she's been doing before.
>
>Whaddya think?
>
>Marie
>
>
>
>
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Perry Templeton

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Since: Jul 25, 2004
Posts: 68



(Msg. 4) Posted: Thu Jul 01, 2004 9:24 am
Post subject: Re: A matter of timing [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

Is there a sprinkler that you can set up to be a deterrent. A barrier to
her "barking spot". I have used a Bark Free device and although it has it's
limitations, it does work.
Even if you can't curtail all the barking, after all, that's her j-o-b, at
least the neighbors and passers by will see you making the effort. One of my
girls is more vocal than the other two, but getting better.
Good luck.
Perry

"Shannon" <slarkin DeleteThis @mit.edu> wrote in message
news:40E41085.2060108@mit.edu...
> Marie -
>
> Does she bark when you're out with her? If so, you can improve your
> timing that way - either grab her attention right when she starts, and
> reward her silence, or possibly catch her before she starts. We do that
> with Guinness when he barks at new neighbors - stay out with him, and
> call him over when he barks. He gets used to them much more quickly
> this way, and eventually will stop barking at them.
>
> -Shannon
>
> Marie wrote:
>
> >Summer is here, which means that there is a constant presence of kids and
> >dogs in the park behind our house, which of course is leading to constant
> >barking from Macula.
> >
> >I'm trying to teach her that if she barks, she comes inside. So when she
> >goes out she wears a leash, and when she barks I go out to retrieve her.
> >
> >Here's the problem: as soon as she sees me coming, she stops barking,
> >droops her head and (if I don't stop approaching her) starts towards the
> >door on her own. If I stop and just watch her, she stands there drooping
> >until I turn away, at which point she starts barking again. I'm thinking
> >the timing is wrong here: that she's not associating my coming out or
her
> >fun ending with the barking she's been doing before.
> >
> >Whaddya think?
> >
> >Marie
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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Child

External


Since: Oct 01, 2004
Posts: 142



(Msg. 5) Posted: Thu Jul 01, 2004 11:48 am
Post subject: Re: A matter of timing [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

"Marie" <mmcw.TakeThisOut@rogers.com> wrote in message
news:FWLEc.6$LgR.3@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
> Summer is here, which means that there is a constant presence of kids and
> dogs in the park behind our house, which of course is leading to constant
> barking from Macula.
>
> I'm trying to teach her that if she barks, she comes inside. So when she
> goes out she wears a leash, and when she barks I go out to retrieve her.
>
> Here's the problem: as soon as she sees me coming, she stops barking,
> droops her head and (if I don't stop approaching her) starts towards the
> door on her own. If I stop and just watch her, she stands there drooping
> until I turn away, at which point she starts barking again. I'm thinking
> the timing is wrong here: that she's not associating my coming out or her
> fun ending with the barking she's been doing before.


Nope. She is training you to go back inside when she stops barking.
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The Puppy Wizard

External


Since: Jul 01, 2003
Posts: 3494



(Msg. 6) Posted: Fri Jul 02, 2004 1:08 am
Post subject: Re: A matter of timing [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: rec>pets>dogs>behavior, others (more info?)

BWEEEEEAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAA!!!

Your dog ATE POISON cause you're a
dog abusing mental case.

"Perry Templeton" <perrylep.DeleteThis@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:9SUEc.342$oK2.296@bignews6.bellsouth.net...
> Is there a sprinkler that you can set up to be a deterrent. A
barrier to
> her "barking spot". I have used a Bark Free device and although
it has it's
> limitations, it does work.
> Even if you can't curtail all the barking, after all, that's her
j-o-b, at
> least the neighbors and passers by will see you making the
effort. One of my
> girls is more vocal than the other two, but getting better.
> Good luck.
> Perry
>
> "Shannon" <slarkin.DeleteThis@mit.edu> wrote in message
> news:40E41085.2060108@mit.edu...
> > Marie -
> >
> > Does she bark when you're out with her? If so, you can
improve your
> > timing that way - either grab her attention right when she
starts, and
> > reward her silence, or possibly catch her before she starts.
We do that
> > with Guinness when he barks at new neighbors - stay out with
him, and
> > call him over when he barks. He gets used to them much more
quickly
> > this way, and eventually will stop barking at them.
> >
> > -Shannon
> >
> > Marie wrote:
> >
> > >Summer is here, which means that there is a constant presence
of kids and
> > >dogs in the park behind our house, which of course is leading
to constant
> > >barking from Macula.
> > >
> > >I'm trying to teach her that if she barks, she comes inside.
So when she
> > >goes out she wears a leash, and when she barks I go out to
retrieve her.
> > >
> > >Here's the problem: as soon as she sees me coming, she stops
barking,
> > >droops her head and (if I don't stop approaching her) starts
towards the
> > >door on her own. If I stop and just watch her, she stands
there drooping
> > >until I turn away, at which point she starts barking again.
I'm thinking
> > >the timing is wrong here: that she's not associating my
coming out or
> her
> > >fun ending with the barking she's been doing before.
> > >
> > >Whaddya think?
> > >
> > >Marie
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
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Marie

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Since: Jun 08, 2004
Posts: 10



(Msg. 7) Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2004 3:16 am
Post subject: Re: A matter of timing [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: rec>pets>dogs>behavior (more info?)

OK--made it back here to read the replies finally: let's try a reply before
crying starts again.

Macula is a "persistant barker." She will bark at things she sees or hears
on the other side of the fence. She will bark at eeeevil squirrels and any
birds that she sees or hears (they don't have to be in the yard). She will
carry on barking conversations with the dog four houses down (whom I've
never seen because it is always inside but whom I can hear barking from
inside its house if the wind is right). Sometimes she will simply lay in
the sun on the deck barking because it is a nice day and she's enjoying the
weather. I have been looking for her mute button for 2.5 years: I think
someone forgto to install it at the factory. I have to try and balance her
love of barking with the neighbours' right to not have to listen to her
constantly.

She will bark if I am outside, but tends to stops a little quicker when I
tell her to than if I have to come to the door. If she can remain quiet,
she can come and go as she likes through the dog door, so her barking is
never at me. Her reaction when I come to the door is very like the one Leah
describes for Madigan: insincere remorse until I give in and let her stay
outside.

My concern is, as I say, with the timing. Trainers like to talk about the
10 second training window. If I still bring her in, even though she has
stopped barking by the time I reach her, I am afraid she isn't getting the
message as to *why* she is being brought in. But if I let her stay out, she
doesn't stay quiet and I'm afraid she figures that she only has to be quiet
when I am looking at her.

'cuse me--baby has started crying again. Hope this clarifies things.

Marie

"Marie" <mmcw RemoveThis @rogers.com> wrote in message
news:FWLEc.6$LgR.3@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
> Summer is here, which means that there is a constant presence of kids and
> dogs in the park behind our house, which of course is leading to constant
> barking from Macula.
>
> I'm trying to teach her that if she barks, she comes inside. So when she
> goes out she wears a leash, and when she barks I go out to retrieve her.
>
> Here's the problem: as soon as she sees me coming, she stops barking,
> droops her head and (if I don't stop approaching her) starts towards the
> door on her own. If I stop and just watch her, she stands there drooping
> until I turn away, at which point she starts barking again. I'm thinking
> the timing is wrong here: that she's not associating my coming out or her
> fun ending with the barking she's been doing before.
>
> Whaddya think?
>
> Marie
>
>
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gswork

External


Since: Jul 05, 2004
Posts: 44



(Msg. 8) Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2004 4:34 am
Post subject: Re: A matter of timing [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: per prev. post (more info?)

"Marie" <mmcw.TakeThisOut@rogers.com> wrote in message news:<IK3Gc.3$Xyd.1@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com>...
> OK--made it back here to read the replies finally: let's try a reply before
> crying starts again.
>
> Macula is a "persistant barker." She will bark at things she sees or hears
> on the other side of the fence. She will bark at eeeevil squirrels and any
> birds that she sees or hears (they don't have to be in the yard). She will
> carry on barking conversations with the dog four houses down (whom I've
> never seen because it is always inside but whom I can hear barking from
> inside its house if the wind is right). Sometimes she will simply lay in
> the sun on the deck barking because it is a nice day and she's enjoying the
> weather. I have been looking for her mute button for 2.5 years: I think
> someone forgto to install it at the factory. I have to try and balance her
> love of barking with the neighbours' right to not have to listen to her
> constantly.

Some dogs do seem to like barking!

> She will bark if I am outside, but tends to stops a little quicker when I
> tell her to than if I have to come to the door. If she can remain quiet,
> she can come and go as she likes through the dog door, so her barking is
> never at me. Her reaction when I come to the door is very like the one Leah
> describes for Madigan: insincere remorse until I give in and let her stay
> outside.

I doubt i'm as experienced as you with dogs, but i don't think I could
ever credibly ascribe "insincere remorse" to a dog!

I think the whole 'coming in if you bark' thing seems a little
convoluted.

I can just imagine the dog 'thinking' "i better get all my barking
done quick because for some strange reason my owner keeps wanting me
to come in!"

> My concern is, as I say, with the timing. Trainers like to talk about the
> 10 second training window. If I still bring her in, even though she has
> stopped barking by the time I reach her, I am afraid she isn't getting the
> message as to *why* she is being brought in. But if I let her stay out, she
> doesn't stay quiet and I'm afraid she figures that she only has to be quiet
> when I am looking at her.

Or maybe she just likes to hang out with you, and your attention is
even more fun than the barking!

maybe it is the timing, but rather than do something odd like bringing
her in (which she must associate with all kinds of other things
already) have you tried that distracting 'funny sound' technique?
(i've probably got that wrong, but hopefully you know what i mean). I
think you can react quicker with that.

I guess there's a risk she'll just bark at the funny sound though!
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The Puppy Wizard

External


Since: Jul 01, 2003
Posts: 3494



(Msg. 9) Posted: Mon Jul 05, 2004 4:44 am
Post subject: Re: A matter of timing [Login to view extended thread Info.]
Archived from groups: rec>pets>dogs>behavior, others (more info?)

BWEEHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAAAA!!!
HOWEDY BigB,

"BigB" <info DeleteThis @canineaction.com> wrote in message
news:kNSEc.4938$IX4.766209@twister.tampabay.rr.com...
>
> "Lynn K." <javagsd DeleteThis @yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:37cd72a9.0406302159.32a8dd9f@posting.google.com...
> >
> > 1. Manage so that the chance

lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn means
force control and HOPE for LUCK.

> > of the unwanted behavior never arises,

THAT WOULD DISAVAIL YOU OF TRAINING
OPPORTUNITIES. Wouldn't it, dog trainers?

> This would be the use of extinction which can
> work on most dogs but not 100%.

That so? CITES PLEASE? Have you read
"Misbehavior Of Organisms?"

The Amazing Puppy Wizard SEZ you
don't know nuthin abHOWET non physical
trainin techniques or you'd NEVER do
what you do to "train" dogs.

> > 3. invent new language to avoid using
> > "punishment" to describe what
> > they are actually doing.

THAT'S INSANE.

We're DONE playin word twister.

> This is why I feel

FEELINS ain't got NUTHIN to do with this.

> that PURE positives don't exist.

Well then, that's all we need to know
abHOWET your ABILITY KNOWLEDGE
EXXXPERTISE and LACK OF SUCCESS
based on your lack of knowledge expertise
and ability.

You cannot use "Pure Positive" training
if you're bribing choking crating spraying
aversives forcing control managing and
avoiding the cunning behaviors of the
domestic puppy dog you don't have the
intellect to HOWEtwit.

You're talkin abHOWET STUFF you've
ADMITTED DOESN'T WORK cause
YOU DON'T KNOW NUTTHIN abHOWET it.

> Because they were taught to use a different
> word or language they have no idea that they
> are punishing.

Lemme get this straight. You're discussin
sumpthin you ADMIT you know NUTHIN
abHOWET BASED ON YOUR RESULTS,
with a PROVEN LYING DOG ABUSING
LONG TERM ACTIVE INCURABLE MENTAL
CASE and making a rational agreement that
what NEITHER OF YOU KNOWS NUTHIN
abHOWET, cannot work, and BLAMING REAL
DOG TRAINERS who NEVER DO what YOU
ALWAYS DO, are USING THE WRONG WORDS?

SomeWON is LYING.

Who is it, BigB?

The Amazing Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW
Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual
Students have a PROVEN TRACK RECORD
of CONSISTENT 100% NEARLY INSTANTLY
SUCCESSFUL CONTROL using NON PHYSICAL
SCIENTIFIC and PSYCHOLOGICAL POSITIVE
TRAINING METHODS which you know NUTHIN
abHOWET or you wouldn't DARE TALK BUSINESS
with these cretins.

> If they were educated they would realize
> they use it often.

No. You're a liar or a mental case.

Or you're just plain mistaken.

You're NEW here abHOWETS. The
Amazing Puppy Wizard will allHOWE
that you're GRAVELY MISTAKEN rather
than lying or that you're INSANE... But
that ain't gonna work for much longer
cause The Amazing Puppy Wizard
doesn't entertrain dog abuser liiars
cowards or mental cases. But HE
IS willin to throw pearls to swine,
perhaps WON of them will pick it up.

> I call myself a Positive trainer
> but I also use punishment....

The Amazing Puppy Wizard calls you
a hypocrite and a fraud... either that,
or you're a liar or a mental case.

Looks like you've MAXXXED HOWET
the extent of The Amazing Puppy
Wizard's HOWEspitality here on The
Amazing Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW
Wits' End Dog Training Method Forum.

> just not harsh punishments such as slapping, hitting, etc.

IOW, you've set limits of abuse that you tolerate
and rely on? You've defined the grey line between
abuse and kindness? You've decided which punishments
are GOOD and which are BAD?

Ain't THAT HOWE COME Adam an Eve got
thrown the heel HOWETA The Garden?

We've been through all this bullshit before, BigB.
You're startin it again with your blatant ignorance
and self defensiveness. IN FACT, you're willin to
ADMIT that you punish dogs cause you can't defend
your statement that you're a so called positive trainer
cause like you're sayin 'THERE AIN'T NO SUCH
CRITTER.'

Well, The Amazing Puppy Wizard calls THAT,
INSANITY OR FRAUD.

> Most other positive trainers I know use R and P often as well.

Then you've got to cholose a NEW WORD that
will allHOWE for you to HURT and INTIMIDATE
DENY and WITHHOLD affection and attention
and PUNISH dogs and STILL SHOWEND like
you're NOT DOIN what YOU'RE DOIN.

IOW, you can't post your lies and bullshit here noMOORE.

> It is the choice of tools and punishers that make positive
> trainers different from traditional trainers not the lack of
> punishment.

THAT'S INSANE. HOWE can you DEFEND such hypocrisy?

> I don't have a problem with these trainers using a
> word or language to describe the punishment they
> use as long as they are well aware that they are
> using punishment.

RIGHT. THAT'S HOWE COME THEIR METHODS FAIL.

Bribery avoidance and crating are not trainin.

> But that would be the difference in an educated
> trainer and one who isn't.

You're a FRAUD. Or a MENTAL CASE.

Or BOTH. Care to PICK WON?

It's still not too late to ADMIT that you
was just PLAIN MISTAKEN. Ain't no
CRIME to bein WRONG, unless you
try to cover it up and rationalize it,
cause that'd be INSANE, ESPECIALLY
while under the watchful mother hen
like eyes of The Amazing Puppy Wizard.

> > And "positive", "negative", "command", etc.. The tortured
> > language used to deny usage of all of those perfectly
> > acceptable terms in an OC sense can get ridiculous.

What's rediculHOWES is a LYING DOG ABUSING
LONG TERM ACTIVE INCURABLE MENTAL CASE
who RUINED her own SELECTIVELY BRED HAND
PICKED and TESTED SAR dog JIVE.

Talk to her abHOWET JIVE, BigB. GO AHEAD.

Jive gets HIGH SCORES in the ring cause
he KNOWS he'll be HURT if he doesn't yet
he KNOWS he can't be hurt on a real life
SAR site cause HIS ABUSER don't know
WHEN to HURT him.

That's HOWE COME the "SAR" dogs in
the Chandra Levy and Elizabeth Smart
cases NEVER MADE their FINDS.

> > It can also lead to some pretty humorous exchanges.

Yeah. Like the Dianne Whipple case. Them
dogs went HOWETA CONTROL cause the
trainers taught the owners to mishandle their
dogs, not cause the dogs was BAD. They was
PERFECT. Their TRAINING caused them to
MURDER and got them DEAD. The SAME
KIND of "TRAINING" that provoked leah's
"RECENT GRADUATE" Rottie to murder a
little dog in the park.

> > For example, someone recently said on one list "It's a
> > little too late to be thinking about positive reinforcement
> > when your herding dog has a sheep's leg in his mouth."

Well, the dog wouldn't ATTACK the sheep if you
TRAINED IT to BE NICE like leah roberts done
for that GRATEFUL GRADUATE STUDENT Rottie
who murders little dogs in the park cause IT has
been ABUSED by an incompetent dog abusing
MENTAL CASE.

> > That led to posts (from people who have never herded)

lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn "RETIRED" her SELECTIVELY
BRED HAND PICKED and TESTED SAR dog JIVE and
brought him back UN SUCCESSFULLY to "work sheep."

CuriHOWES ain't it, that she's got the same same
same same problems controling her HOWETA
CONTROL dog in a sheep trial if she can't BURN
IT with her SHOCK COLLAR that she had on SAR
sites.

> > claiming all herding training should be done by clicker,

Clicker training is idiocy. So's this.

Here's lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn's PARTNER:

"Many People Have Problems Getting The Pinch
Right, Either They Do Not Pinch Enough, Or They
Have A Very Stoic Dog. Some Dogs Will Collapse
Into A Heap. About The Ear Pinch: You Must Keep
The Pressure Up," sindy "don't let the dog SCREAM"
mooreon, author of HOWER FAQ's pages on k9 web.

You think HURTING a HUNTING DOG to
MAKE IT HUNT is NECESSARY???

> > any dog that would grip sheep must be reacting to the
> > stress of abusive training,

THAT'S CORRECT. VIOLENCE IS LEARNED.

> > training is started by using physical contact with
> > stock as the reward, and other equally funny notions.

You mean, like beatin dogs in the face with a shepherd's crook?:

"Well, Jack Did Hit My Dog. Actually I'd Call It
A Sharp Tap Of The Crook To The Nose. I Know
Jack Wouldn't HaveDone It If He Thought Solo
Couldn't Take It. I Still Crate Him Because
Otherwise I Fear He Might Eat My Cat," melanie.

You think allowing a "FEAR AGGRESSIVE MAN
SHY" dog to be BEATEN by a strange male trainer
is INTELLIGENT BEHAVIOR for a DOG LOVER?

Or did lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn mean jerking
and choking a new foster care dog to make IT feel
safe an sHOWEND?:

lyinglynn writes to a new foster care giver:
For barking in the crate - leave the leash on and
pass it through the crate door. Attach a line to it.
When he barks, use the line for a correction.

- if necessary, go to a citronella bark collar.

Lynn K.

> > If ignorance is bliss, the pper's are one joyful lot.

Only when we're discussing non violent trainin
with a lying dog abusing mental case whom we
can QUOTE HURTING and MURDERING dogs
and LYING abHOWET it:

"You Lying Sack Of Dung.When Have I Ever Said
Anything About Using A Prong Collar, Or Any Collar
Correction At All, To Make Dogs Friendly To House
Cats? Don't bother. The answer is never," lying "I
LOVE KOEHLER" lynn.

lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn writes about kats and dogs:

"This Article Is Something We've Put Together
For SF GSD Rescue

From: Lynn Kosmakos (lkosmakos@home.com)
Subject: Re: I have a dog he has cats
Date: 1999/11/20

ginger57 DeleteThis @my-deja.com wrote:
> How can I get him to quit chasing the cats.

Okay - this is going to be a bit loooong - Lynn K.

"Put a prong collar with a six-foot leash on the dog. Don't
forget to put the muzzle on the dog. I think a prong works
better than a choke with less chance of injury to the dog in
this situation.

Electronics can be used to create an aversion to cats, but
should be used under the direction of a trainer who knows how
to instruct the owner in their proper use. Electronics can
take the form of shock, sonic or citronella collars. At that
time the owner will train with electronics instead of food or
whatever other reward system was being used."

8) Put a prong collar with a six-foot leash on the dog.
Don't forget to put the muzzle on the dog. I think a prong
works better than a choke with less chance of injury to the
dog in this situation. Have the dog in a sit-stay next to
you with most of the slack out of the leash and let the cat
walk through the room and up to the dog if it wishes (this is
why you have the dog muzzled).

If the dog makes an aggressive move towards the
cat, it must be corrected strongly with both your
voice and the collar.

This is important - the correction must be physically
very strong - not a nag. (PS: not many dogs need
to be corrected at all)."

Lynn K. wrote:

"I used to work the Kill Room as a volunteer in
one shelter.) But their ability to set their own
schedules and duties causes a great deal of
scheduling overhead.

And it takes effort and thought to ensure that
volunteers get the meaningful experience that
they work for.

Someone has to be responsible for that
Volunteer Program, and it is best done
by a non-volunteer."

Lynn K.
---------------------------------

"I worked with one shelter where I bathed and groomed
every adoptable dog on intake. I frankly felt that the
effort/benefit equation was not balanced for some of the
older/ill poodle/terrier mixes we got in badly matted condition.

Should I have refused to groom them?

Or even more pertinent - I was one of the people who
had to make the euthanasia decisions at that shelter."

Lynn K.

Baghdad Bob <Baghdadbob> wrote in message
news:<04591a2c5d469ef78d35c89ed4ed58f7@TeraNews>...

> >> Lynn, looks like he got you there if these
> >> quotes are true.
>
> >> In the posts below you take responsibility for
> >> making those calls.
>
> >> In your post above, you state you do not
> >> make those calls.
>
> >>Which one is it?

------------------------------------------

Here's lying "I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn's PARTNER:

"Many People Have Problems Getting The Pinch
Right, Either They Do Not Pinch Enough, Or They
Have A Very Stoic Dog. Some Dogs Will Collapse
Into A Heap. About The Ear Pinch: You Must Keep
The Pressure Up," sindy "don't let the dog SCREAM"
mooreon, author of HOWER FAQ's pages on k9 web.

You think HURTING a HUNTING DOG to
MAKE IT HUNT is NECESSARY???

And here's a few MOORE of HOWER Gang
Of Lying Dog Abusing Punk Thug Coward
And ACTIVE LONG TERM INCURABLE
MENTAL CASES:

"J1Boss" <j1boss DeleteThis @aol.com> wrote in message
news:20040324071828.07753.00000001@mb-m18.aol.com...
>
> He was next to me and I could see his neck
> muscles pulsing. He didn't even blink an eye.
>
> Janet Boss

"sionnach" <rhyfelwr DeleteThis @msn.com> wrote in message
news:c3qi15$2biuoh$1@ID-45033.news.uni-berlin.de...
> "J1Boss" <j1boss DeleteThis @aol.com> wrote in message
> news:20040323173916.10096.00001938@mb-m17.aol.com...
>
> > > I can't imagine needing anything higher
> > > than a 5 with it, even with an insensitive
> > > dog like a Lab.

An INSENSITIVE DOG???

> > I can't remember what model of Innotek I have, but
> > I had apointer ignore a neck-muscle-pulsing 9.

Jerking choking and shockin and lockin dogs
in boxes and ignoring their cries makes their
dogs go "EWWWW" but they don't NOTICE
EXXXCEPT to spray BINACA in their eyes
and jerk and choke them on pronged spiked
pinch choke collars and shock and spray MOORE
aversives in their faces.

Do you think the citronella collar is CRUEL cause
the SMELL LINGERS after the dog's been sprayed
in the face and the dog won't know HOWE COME
IT was MACED?

> > My dogs are not human children wearing
> > fur- they are DOGS.

They're DUMB ANIMALS these MENTALLY ILL
LYING DOG ABUSERS HURT and MURDER.

> > Even if there is no chance in hell their
> > dogs will actually get to herd :-)

Let's talk abHOWET lying "I LOVE KOEHLER"
lynn's SELECTIVELY BRED HAND PICKED
and TESTED SAR dog JIVE?

BWEEEEHAHAHAHAHAHAAA!!!

> Ii hope you are not lumping ALL positive trainers

YOU MEAN POSITVE TRAINERS LIKE YOURSELF
WHO RELY ON VARIHOWES FORMS OF PUNISHMENT
USING A VARIETY OF WORDS?

> into this category

Which category?

Liars, dog abusers and mental cases OR FRAUDS?

Either TAKE YOUR PICK or admit you know
NUTHIN abHOWET "positive trainin" and admit
that you're a gentle punishing trainer or whatever
WORDS you choose, so long as you're no longer
LYING or committing FRAUD or forcin The Amazing
Puppy Wizard to PROVE that you're INSANE.

> because not all are like that.

Like WHAT? LIARS DOG ABUSERS FRAUDS or INSANE?

> I do agree that there are some out there who do not
> have balance because they have moved to far to one
> end of the spectrum.

Well, you just PUSHED WON of The Amazing Puppy
Wizard's HOT buttons, BigB. So called BALANCED
TRAINERS are lying dog abusing FRAUDS.

> B

Better to be a GENTLE PUNISHER than a LIAR
DOG ABUSER COWARD and MENTAL CASE

Ain't it, BigB?

Here's what we're dealin with. We got good folks
like yourself who've been struggling all their career
to do what you'll NEVER be able to do cause every
thing you though you knew is BULLSHIT, Vs dog
abusing lying cowards and mental cases who'll do
and say ANY THING to defend their alleged right
to hurt and murder dogs to compensate for their
fragile defective egos, inferiority complexes, weak
fearful minds and protect their false undeserved
self proclaimed worthless reputations:

WORDS OF WISDOM
from our own Lynn Kosmakos
1200mg of lithium and 50 mg of Zoloft every day
For Twenty Years

I THINK I'M QUALIFIED TO TALK ABOUT LITHIUM

"I, too, have a bi-polar mood disorder (manic-depression)
requiring 1200mg of lithium and 50 mg of Zoloft every
day.

I, also, care about dogs and use this forum to learn
more, while happily sharing pertinent information
I have learned. But if I were ever to post such sh*t,
I would hope that every other reader of this group
would be rightfully outraged."

"Community is an evolutionary thing that we earn
the right to participate in by observing the
easily understood rules and contributing to in
constructive ways."

Lynn K.

-----------------------------------------

"It wasn't that meds didn't work for her
- she wouldn't take them. I particularly remember
a comment she made about scarey side effects of
Lithium. Hardly. After 17 years on it, I think
I'm qualified to say that the very low risk of
any side effect is far less frightening than the
very real dangers of life without it."

Lynn K.
-----------------------------------------


"Speech is a mirror of the soul: as a man speaks,
so is he." Publilius Syrus, First century B.C., Maxim 1073

"We are what we do."

From: Marshall Dermer (dermer@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu)
Subject: Re: Jerry's Dog Training Manual
Date: 2001-07-12 06:49:13 PST

>Paul B wrote:
>> While the concept of shake cans is not new,
>> I haven't read any other advice that says to
>> praise immediately regardless of what the dog
>> does next (the common advice is to praise once
>> the dog is doing a desired behaviour or at least
>> stopped the unwanted behaviour), this is unique
>> to Jerry (and Marilyn) and from my own experiences
>> is an important part of the process.

And how do we know this aspect of his advice is right?

Jerry is not God and his manual is not the Bible.

His advice could be subject to an empirical analysis.

--Marshall

=================

"Marshall Dermer" <dermer DeleteThis @alpha1.csd.uwm.edu>
wrote in message news:9ihtee$7ib$1@uwm.edu...
>
From: Paul B (NOSPAMpanders@zfree.co.nz)
Subject: Re: Jerry's Dog Training Manual
Date: 2001-07-12 00:13:28 PST

Hello Marshall,

The way I view it from my observation of how
my dogs react is that the distraction interrupts
the dogs thought, not for good or bad, just
interrupts, the dog is therefore distracted for
a second and then will either continue the
behaviour or do something else.

The praise reassures the dog that the sound
distraction is not a threat or punishment,
however if everytime the dog resumes a
particular behaviour it's distracted immediately
(and praised immediately for reassurance) then
it quickly decides this behaviour is not fulfilling
and it ceases.

A dog will offer another behaviour in it's place
and if that is acceptable to us then we let it be
otherwise the distraction continues until a suitable
alternate behaviour is offered.

One example, Sam used to jump up on me
when I arrived home, I would shake can to
distract him right at the moment he was
about to jump up, after about 4 repetitions
he tried sitting and offering me his paw, of
course this was fine so I let it be.

While the concept of shake cans is not new,
I haven't read any other advice that says to
praise immediately regardless of what the
dog does next (the common advice is to
praise once the dog is doing a desired
behaviour or at least stopped the unwanted
behaviour), this is unique to Jerry (and Marilyn)
and from my own experiences is an important
part of the process.

> Thanks Paul! He does recommend praising
> a dog for barking, but he appears to recognize
> that this may not work and so distraction
> is recommended as a back up procedure:

"Estel J. Hines" <ejhines DeleteThis @comcast.net> wrote in message
news:w86dna9lBfNZgbTdRVn-hA@comcast.com...
>
>>> Until i read the Jerry method of Bark reductioon,
>>> it went something like this with our 11 month old
>>> puppy "Yoshi"
>
>>> Yoshi: Bark, bark,
>
>>> us: HUSH Youshi
>
>>> Yoshi Bark, bark......................
>
>>> us: Hush Youshi
>
>>> Yoshi BARK, BARK, BARK, .................................
>
>>> it stopped when Yoshi got tired barking
>
>>> We decided to try the Jerry method
>
>>> :Yoshi: BARK, BARK
>
>>> US: GOOD Yoshi, Good Boy, who is it?
>
>>> Yoshi Bark, Bark
>
>>> US: It's ok, good boy Yoshi, We know them
>
>>> Yosh without fail, now stops after we say that
>>> I must say, it is so much more fun, when we
>>> can praise him, to deal with things like this
>
>>> Thanks Jerry
>
>>> ps: We are just starting to go thru the Jerry
>>> Papers, and learn how to live with our son
>>> "Yoshi", whom we love very much. --
>
>>> Best Regards,
>
>>> Estel J. Hines

==============

> There really is NOTHING new about the advice above!

Nuthin EXXXCEPT HOWE IT'S DONE.

> Sound distraction may be understood in
> terms of the more general behavior analytic
> approach as follows.
>
> The distracting stimulus

Like a SCRUFF SHAKE, professor?

>evokes a behavior that is incompatible with barking.

You mean like SCREAMING "NO!" into ITS face
for 5 seconds?

> The dog engages in some other behavior

NO, professor SCRUFF SHAKE.

THAT AIN'T HOWE IT WORKS.

> and then is reinforced (if praise functions as a
> reinforcer).

NO, professor. You don't UNDERSTAND the METHOD.

> --Marshal

ANAL-yize THIS, professor SCRUFF SHAKE:

Here's professor of ANAL-ytic behaviorISM research
at UofWI marshall "SCRUFF SHAKE and SCREAM
"NO!" into ITS face for five seconds and lock IT in a
box for ten minutes contemplation" dermer:

"At this point, "No" does not have any behavioral function.
But, if you say "No,"pick up the puppy by its neck and
shake it a bit, and the frequency of the biting decreases
then you will have achieved too things.

First, the frequency of unwanted chewing has decreased;
and two, you have established "No" as a conditioned punisher.

How much neck pulling and shaking? Just the
minimum necessary to decrease the unwanted
biting.

******IS THAT A CONSISTENT 5 SECONDS?*******

When our dog was a puppy, "No" came before mild
forms of punishment (I would hold my dog's mouth
closed for a few seconds.) whereas "Bad Dog" came
before stronger punishement (the kind discussed above).

"No" is usually sufficient but sometimes I use "Bad Dog"
to stop a behavior. "Bad Dog" ALWAYS works."

That's HOWE COME your dog has OCD behaviors
and is deathly ill from The Puppy Wizard's SYNDROME.

And The Amazing Puppy Wizard SEZ you
can't post here abHOWETS noMOORE
cause you're a liar and a dog abuser and
a coward and a MENTAL CASE.

Here's HOWE The Amazing Puppy Wizard teaches
HIS FREE WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method
Manual Students to train their critters NEARLY
INSTANTLY.

New Law Of Physics

HOWEDY People,

"The amount of misery and difficulty a dog abuser
has from their dogs is directly proportionate to the
number of times they've WARNED people to KILLFILE
Jerry and not study your FREE copy of The Puppy
Wizard's FREE WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method
Manual..."

"The Methods, Principles, And Philosophy Of
Behavior Never Change, Or They'd Not Be
Scientific And Would Not Obtain Consistent,
Reliable, Fast, Effective Results For All Handler's
And All Dogs, NEARLY INSTANTLY, As Taught
In Your FREE Copy Of The Puppy Wizard's FREE
WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual."

The Puppy Wizard. <{} ; ~ ) >

Here's Disciple Paulie:

Disciple Paulie Sez: "No One Understands
How Wits End Training Really Works, They
Assume It's All Nicey Nicey And don't Realise
It's A Very Disciplined Method That Deals With
Any Situation And The Foundation Is Built On
Trust And Understanding."

Disciple Paulie Writes:

I've never forced my dogs to do anything, I tell
them they are good dogs and they seem to
follow me, once I told them they were bad dogs
and they ran away from me, now I only ever tell
them they are good dogs and they always are, always.

Trust your dog, ask it to do your request and say
"good dog" sincerely at the end of the request and
I bet you'll find your dog thinking then responding
everytime.

A bit of respect works wonders, the same rule applies
to every aspect of the relationship with your dog.

Obedience and affection are not related, if they were
everyone would have obedient dogs.

Paul.

========================

Here's a couple of The Puppy Wizard's FREE
WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual
Students tellin you HOWE they done it EZ GENTLY
NEARLY INSTANTLY and FOR FREE:

"The Puppy Wizard" <ThePuppyWizard DeleteThis @earthlink.net>
schreef inbericht
news:DLpzb.2640$Qd6.1560@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net...
>
> You'll get ALL the INFORMATION you need in your
> FREE copy of The Puppy Wizard's FREE WWW
> Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual. You'll be
> taught some general exercises to calm and relax
> your dog and give him the direct attention he
> NEEDS in only a few minutes every other day, and
> you'll learn HOWE to use distraction and praise to
> EXXXTINGUISH the HABITUAL aspect of this DIS-
> EASE.

My dog (a 1 year old Yellow Lab) was biting his tail
at the root (Vet said his anal gland was blocked, and
was causing an itch).

After squeezing it, he still wouldn't stop biting his
tail. The vet advised a neck-funnel (don't know wat
you US-guy's call those) so he couldn't reach his butt.

I hate those things, i think they will drive a dog nuts.

I tried the wits end method. (difficult to read such a long
textfile if English is not your native language) Luckily this
is without all the "HOWE's" etc.so at least it's readable for
somebody like me.

The minute he started to bite i trew my key's
next to him on the floor, and praised him (he
stopped biting and looked up when he heard
the sound) I did this 7 times,

after that the tailbiting completely stopped.
Just give the wits end method a try.

One of the possible downloadlocations
is http://www.doggydoright.com/id3.html


Hennie van Dalen
www.chello.nl/~h.vandalen11

----------------------------

"Paul B" <abcde DeleteThis @clear.net.nz> schreef in bericht
news:3ff50d83@clear.net.nz...
>
> Both my dogs at some stage have licked a spot
> somewhere on their bodies and I have always
> managed to train them to stop. In all cases there
> was nothing wrong that licking would have helped
> (Roz has had cut pads, stitches in her belly and
> skin itrritations, all tempting her to lick), none of their
> licking has been due to any allergies
>
>. When I see the dog licking more than normal I
> look at the spot to see whats there and decide if
> a vet appointment is needed or to wait and see,
> keeping a close eye.
>
>To stop the licking I distract the dog and give it
> some friendly banter, when it starts licking again
> I repeat, usually after about 4 times the dog stops,
> for the moment at least, if it starts again then repeat,
> before long the dog has no more desire to lick that
> spot at all.

The same thing worked with my lab licking/chewing
problem too. He had an itch due to blocked anal glands
and started chewing and licking his tail at the root.

After the glands were squeezed, and the itch was
gone he still wouldn't stop. (because the place he
chewed raw was itching)

After some training (roughly the same methode as
yours) he stopped.

--
Hennie van Dalen
www.chello.nl/~h.vandalen11
www.chello.nl/~h.vandalen11/fotografie/doggy-pictures/

--------------------------------------


"Hennie van Dalen" <h.vandalen11***removethis***@chello.nl>
wrote in message news:TlsCb.2895$7U1.7896@amstwist00...

RTFM is age-old computer lingo.... It stands for "Read The F***ing
Manual" ;-) I used the manual and it works
very good!

But it is a long text to read (76 pages printed on
A4-size paper) My lab is 1year old now, and teaching
him something new takes about 30minutes
(depending on what to teach offcourse)

My other dog (a 7year old staffordshire terrier-mix) is a bit
slower in learning, but he is used to me calling him a "bad
dog"whenever he did something i didn't want him to do, or
it might be the age.

Sometimes it looks like Sam (the lab) WANTS to learn
something new: he wants me to bring along the can
filled with washers whenever we go for a walk. It is a
very "humane" way of teaching: the dog is allways a
"good dog", and never a "bad dog"

There is nu punishment or prong-collars involved.

For a fact i tought him to heel in 15min's without
beeing on a leach at-all !!! When he spotted a dog,
he used to run towards it, but now i tought him to "ask
permission" first, and to my surprise it worked!

My dogs never went to puppy-training (lucky for them),
maybe this helped too.

Manual can be found at http://www.doggydoright.com/id3.html

-- Hennie van Dalen www.chello.nl/~h.vandalen11
www.chello.nl/~h.vandalen11/fotografie/doggy-pictures/


"Ted Rumple" <rumplemint DeleteThis @kalbar.net> wrote in message
news:30aa784b.0309290208.135e9ab1@posting.google.com...
>
> Jerry, I am forever in your debt. The system you have
> created for training dogs is absolutely amazing!
>
> I can't wait until the new version is available for human
> children!
>
> Thank you for your service to humanity!


From: Paul B (NOSPAMpanders@zfree.co.nz)
Subject: Re: Get off the bed... please?
Date: 2001-07-03 03:05:59 PST

A bit of respect works wonders, the same rule applies to
every aspect of the relationship with your dog.

Paul.

========================


The Puppy Wizard. <TPW{}; ~ } >




"Marie" <mmcw DeleteThis @rogers.com> wrote in message
news:IK3Gc.3$Xyd.1@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
> OK--made it back here to read the replies finally: let's try a
reply before
> crying starts again.
>
> Macula is a "persistant barker." She will bark at things she
sees or hears
> on the other side of the fence. She will bark at eeeevil
squirrels and any
> birds that she sees or hears (they don't have to be in the
yard). She will
> carry on barking conversations with the dog four houses down
(whom I've
> never seen because it is always inside but whom I can hear
barking from
> inside its house if the wind is right). Sometimes she will
simply lay in
> the sun on the deck barking because it is a nice day and she's
enjoying the
> weather. I have been looking for her mute button for 2.5 years:
I think
> someone forgto to install it at the factory. I have to try and
balance her
> love of barking with the neighbours' right to not have to listen
to her
> constantly.
>
> She will bark if I am outside, but tends to stops a little
quicker when I
> tell her to than if I have to come to the door. If she can
remain quiet,
> she can come and go as she likes through the dog door, so her
barking is
> never at me. Her reaction when I come to the door is very like
the one Leah
> describes for Madigan: insincere remorse until I give in and let
her stay
> outside.
>
> My concern is, as I say, with the timing. Trainers like to talk
about the
> 10 second training window. If I still bring her in, even though
she has
> stopped barking by the time I reach her, I am afraid she isn't
getting the
> message as to *why* she is being brought in. But if I let her
stay out, she
> doesn't stay quiet and I'm afraid she figures that she only has
to be quiet
> when I am looking at her.
>
> 'cuse me--baby has started crying again. Hope this clarifies
things.
>
> Marie
>
> "Marie" <mmcw DeleteThis @rogers.com> wrote in message
> news:FWLEc.6$LgR.3@news04.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com...
> > Summer is here, which means that there is a constant presence
of kids and
> > dogs in the park behind our house, which of course is leading
to constant
> > barking from Macula.
> >
> > I'm trying to teach her that if she barks, she comes inside.
So when she
> > goes out she wears a leash, and when she barks I go out to
retrieve her.
> >
> > Here's the problem: as soon as she sees me coming, she stops
barking,
> > droops her head and (if I don't stop approaching her) starts
towards the
> > door on her own. If I stop and just watch her, she stands
there drooping
> > until I turn away, at which point she starts barking again.
I'm thinking
> > the timing is wrong here: that she's not associating my
coming out or her
> > fun ending with the barking she's been doing before.
> >
> > Whaddya think?
> >
> > Marie
> >
> >
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: A matter of timing 
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