leash training

Janet B <janet.DeleteThis@bestfriendsdogobedience.com> wrote in
news:qmd9811nurrabfskc3uk7u864vqver5p23@4ax.com:

> Tweezers - twist as you pull. Clean area afterward. Kill tick.
> Advantix, Frontline, picking over dog regularly, avoiding areas they
> like - fields, under pine trees.

Well, so much for the entire Pacific Northwest! :-)

So far, Stormy hasn't picked any up: Around Vancouver Island, they tend to
lurk in bushes of Scotch Broom, which is an invasive garden escapee. All
the more reason to yank the stuff out. Beating back the broom and the wild
blackberry hedges takes most of our grounds maintenance time every year.

--
Kate
and Storm the FCR
arfenarf at hotmail dot com
 >> Stay informed about: leash training 

"shelly" <scouvrette.TakeThisOut@bluemarble.net> wrote in message
news:Pine.BSF.4.56.0505131406120.45964@tesla.bluemarble.net...
> on 2005-05-13 at 19:37 <diana.TakeThisOut@dogstuffagain.fslife.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>It works
>
> apparently not very well, at least not for all dogs. IME
> making like a tree teaches the dog to pull, then stop until
> the leash is slack, then pull, then stop until the leash is
> slack. not very helpful, that.
>

Combined with a click & treat, rewarding from behind, so being able to sneak
a second click n treat in by the time pooch has reached a parallel to knee
position worked well for us - 'like a tree' is the big reminder for a
seriously excitable young hunting dog with a lot of 'I wanna go hunting NOW'
in her veins that sometimes over-rules the 'I ought to obey mumsey' -

At the end of the day, lose lead walking is one of the most difficult things
to train a dog kindly to - cos it goes totally against everything the dog
wants to do - much like preventing the child from running out into the road
to grab the i.e.-cream van.... but the more patience and consistency you put
in, the better your end result.

Diana
 >> Stay informed about: leash training 

Mick, plenty of comments on the ticks, but few on the leash control. I would
suggest trying a special collar that goes around the dogs face, with the
leash attached below the jaw. When the dog pulls, his face is turned towards
you. One well known brand is the Halti collar. I have used this with success
on my Cocker, who should have been named "TugBoat" for his pulling ability.

Since he has been able to pull it off at times, I use a shorter leash on the
Halti and a longer leash on his regular collar as backup.

Another training trick which has varied success is to suddenly turn and head
the reverse direction when the dog starts to quickly take up the slack in
the leash and you know he is about to pull. Eventually, the dog is supposed
to realize it is better to walk next to you so he doesn't receive any sudden
surprises.

Another trick to teach healing is to carry some treats the dogs really
loves, like freeze dried liver. Have a piece in your hand and have the dog
look up at it as he walks with you. After walking nicely for a while, reward
him with a good boy/girl, and give the reward. If the dog begins to ignore
the treat and pulls ahead, put him in a stop - sit and make him wait a
minute before the walk resumes.

Good luck and may you have strong arms (chuckle).

"Mick" <mike_t712000.RemoveThis@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1115989530.471056.64380@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>I have a lively 2 year old Springer Spaniel and I am having problems
> training him to walk on a leash, he is pulling constantly, otherwise he
> is fine. Does anyone have any tips to train him to walk comfortably on
> a leash?
>
> Also does anyone know how to remove tics? Or tips on avoiding these
> critters.
>
 >> Stay informed about: leash training 

THAT'S SHEER IDIOCY.
 >> Stay informed about: leash training 

ThePetAlchemist DeleteThis @FastMail.FM wrote in news:1116136969.882884.92770
@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com:

> THAT'S SHEER IDIOCY.
>

Yes.
You are.
 >> Stay informed about: leash training 

What has worked well for me follows. I really only teach a non-pulling
walk
(not heel) until I get started with formal obedience (I compete).
~ If the dog is walking nicely, I always praise. When going somewhere
with
him that I anticipate a training session or even an event that would be
training, I keep treats in my pocket, so I can also randomly enforce.
~ If the dog gets ahead of where I want it to be, I stop. When the dog

returns to heel position, we can then continue foreward. I also, when
teaching loose heeling, with a very difficult dog, require that it
circle me
before walking foreward.
 >> Stay informed about: leash training 

What has worked well for me follows. I really only teach a non-pulling
walk
(not heel) until I get started with formal obedience (I compete).
~ If the dog is walking nicely, I always praise. When going somewhere
with
him that I anticipate a training session or even an event that would be
training, I keep treats in my pocket, so I can also randomly enforce.
~ If the dog gets ahead of where I want it to be, I stop. When the dog

returns to heel position, we can then continue foreward. I also, when
teaching loose heeling, with a very difficult dog, require that it
circle me
before walking foreward.
 >> Stay informed about: leash training 

What has worked well for me follows. I really only teach a non-pulling
walk
(not heel) until I get started with formal obedience (I compete).
~ If the dog is walking nicely, I always praise. When going somewhere
with
him that I anticipate a training session or even an event that would be
training, I keep treats in my pocket, so I can also randomly enforce.
~ If the dog gets ahead of where I want it to be, I stop. When the dog

returns to heel position, we can then continue foreward. I also, when
teaching loose heeling, with a very difficult dog, require that it
circle me
before walking foreward.
 >> Stay informed about: leash training 

What has worked well for me follows. I really only teach a non-pulling
walk
(not heel) until I get started with formal obedience (I compete).
~ If the dog is walking nicely, I always praise. When going somewhere
with
him that I anticipate a training session or even an event that would be
training, I keep treats in my pocket, so I can also randomly enforce.
~ If the dog gets ahead of where I want it to be, I stop. When the dog

returns to heel position, we can then continue foreward. I also, when
teaching loose heeling, with a very difficult dog, require that it
circle me
before walking foreward.
 >> Stay informed about: leash training 

What has worked well for me follows. I really only teach a non-pulling
walk
(not heel) until I get started with formal obedience (I compete).
~ If the dog is walking nicely, I always praise. When going somewhere
with
him that I anticipate a training session or even an event that would be
training, I keep treats in my pocket, so I can also randomly enforce.
~ If the dog gets ahead of where I want it to be, I stop. When the dog

returns to heel position, we can then continue foreward. I also, when
teaching loose heeling, with a very difficult dog, require that it
circle me
before walking foreward.
 >> Stay informed about: leash training 

What has worked well for me follows. I really only teach a non-pulling
walk
(not heel) until I get started with formal obedience (I compete).
~ If the dog is walking nicely, I always praise. When going somewhere
with
him that I anticipate a training session or even an event that would be
training, I keep treats in my pocket, so I can also randomly enforce.
~ If the dog gets ahead of where I want it to be, I stop. When the dog

returns to heel position, we can then continue foreward. I also, when
teaching loose heeling, with a very difficult dog, require that it
circle me
before walking foreward.
 >> Stay informed about: leash training 

What has worked well for me follows. I really only teach a non-pulling
walk
(not heel) until I get started with formal obedience (I compete).
~ If the dog is walking nicely, I always praise. When going somewhere
with
him that I anticipate a training session or even an event that would be
training, I keep treats in my pocket, so I can also randomly enforce.
~ If the dog gets ahead of where I want it to be, I stop. When the dog

returns to heel position, we can then continue foreward. I also, when
teaching loose heeling, with a very difficult dog, require that it
circle me
before walking foreward.
 >> Stay informed about: leash training 

THAT'S what the rest of these incompetent
mental cases do and THAT'S HOWE COME they
rely on pronged spiked pinch choke collars
on accHOWENT of IT DON'T WORK.

Beverm2005 DeleteThis @yahoo.co.uk wrote:
> What has worked well for me follows. I really only teach a
non-pulling
> walk
> (not heel) until I get started with formal obedience (I compete).
> ~ If the dog is walking nicely, I always praise. When going
somewhere
> with
> him that I anticipate a training session or even an event that would
be
> training, I keep treats in my pocket, so I can also randomly enforce.
> ~ If the dog gets ahead of where I want it to be, I stop. When the
dog
>
> returns to heel position, we can then continue foreward. I also,
when
> teaching loose heeling, with a very difficult dog, require that it
> circle me
> before walking foreward.
 >> Stay informed about: leash training