inhouse/inpipe filtration?

i read some place that it's possible to make a filtration system with
little modification to your houses plumping system so that there is no
need for tank replenishment and filtration components (Carbon and
cotton) costs would be greatly minized because you can place a common
drinking filter in the pipe. Is this true? Does anyone have any
information about something like this? Also does anyone have a link to
a file or a how to or some blue prints?

ray wrote:
> i read some place that it's possible to make a filtration system with
> little modification to your houses plumping system

Yes.

> so that there is no
> need for tank replenishment and filtration components (Carbon and
> cotton)

Maybe. Particulates may continue to be a problem.

> costs would be greatly minized because you can place a common
> drinking filter in the pipe. Is this true?

Maybe. Depends on how well you are able to manage "cost".

> Does anyone have any
> information about something like this? Also does anyone have a link to
> a file or a how to or some blue prints?

Ok, where to start. I have a 135G fresh water plant tank,
and a 135G reef. Obviously, we're not talking reef tanks.

My tank is fully "plumbed". Real easy, even cheap, if you
are locating your tank close to a water room (kitchen, bath,
laundry) or you can run a few poly tubes under a carpet.

First, the "rules". You have to 1) get water to the tank;
and 2) get water to a drain.

****
For 1 (Supply) here's what I use:

- A $20 lawn watering timer from WalMart, Lowes, etc.
- Rolls of 1/2" poly-tube to reach a supply line.
- 2 Under sink cartridge filters.
- - One 5 micron prefilter (Harmsco reusable).
- - One Matrix carbon block (KX Industries).
- A piercing valve
- Appropriate collection of fittings (I like John Guest).
- - Two of which should include a valve.

Pretty easy. Pierce a cold water line, run the poly tube to
the tank, through the lawn timer, then micron filter, then
carbon, then into your tank.

You want one valve ahead of the micron filter and one valve
as it enters the tank. The first valve (valve 1) allows you
to change the cartridges, the second (Valve 2) is to control
the flow rate without screwing up your adjustment when you
change filters.

You now have chlorine free water at your tank.

You'll have to set a rate appropriate for your tank. I let
the system change 5 gallons per day. Set your lawn timer to
some period of time, and adjust Valve 2 to trickle out the
amount of water you want. Measure in a 5 gallon bucket, do
whatever math you need.

***
For 2 (drain) here's what I use...

- CPR overflow, or similar.
- 1 Fluid Master toilet valve.
- 1 length of 1" PVC
- 1" PVC T
- 1" PVC 90
- Fittings

Not so easy. You CAREFULLY drill a hole into the bottom of
the CPR to accept the Fluid Master valve. This is an
overflow within the overflow.

You have to take apart the Fluid Master, you only want the
inner tube. Install this into the CPR.

Use the PVC to make a siphon break. Put the 90 at the
floor, and the T near the same level as the CPR. The top of
the PVC could be 1", or so, above the top of your tank.

Run a short length of poly tube from the Fluid Master tube,
into the PVC T (Again, I LIKE John Guest fittings). It
helps to allow the pipe to retain a single loop, down to the
left, over the top, and into the T.

Run poly from the floor 90, to a low point drain. I use the
water tank on back of my toilet.

*****
Operation...

When fresh water enters the tank, the level rises in the
overflow first. It rises above the Fluid Master and runs
down the drain. My system flows at 6 gallons per hour, max,
so as to never overflow the aquarium.

I use this for automated water changes only. I also have a
second functional Fluid Master (slightly modified) in the
CPR that tops off evaporation as needed.

Around here city water/sewage is sold in 10K gallon units,
about $30 each. For my 135G that's about 3 months at one
complete tank turnover per day. Surely enough to provide a
safe haven. $10/month, not bad, not bad at all, if you can
use a small power head for movement and particulate capture.

*****
BTW, I use a Quite One pump for water movement. Since I
have the pump, I also filter. I use two 20 inch "Big Blue"
whole house cartridges ($60 each). First uses a Harmsco 5
micron reusable pleated cartridge (which I usually charge
with DE) and the second is spiral wound WalMart hobby/craft
felt with black plastic mesh (very similar to DLS supporting
net). Water flows past the felt, through the mesh.

I never actually did the math before. For me, the Capital
investment is already sunk. I'm looking at 85 Watts to run
the pump, the felt bio-filter is near infinite lifespan, and
the Harmsco 5 micron filters w/DE work out to less than
$1.50 a month.

Maybe I could cut pump power to 40 watts, about $4.50/mo,
and save on the occasional Harmsco. About $6/month total in
filter consumables vs. $10/month on water replacement.
Payback on my Capital investment would be about 2 years.

*******
YMMV, If your tank isn't 135G or beyond, I'm sure you can
adjust the recipe use WalMart standard 10" or 20",
non-slimline. or "Big Blue" 10" water treatment canisters.