On Mon, 9 Feb 2004 10:00:17 -0500, "Harry Muscle" <fake@AT@e-mail.com>
wrote:
>If your goal is to control which lamp is on via a switch, it's going to
>prove a lot more difficult that it looks at first. I looked into such a
>design a little while back. The biggest problem with using a switch to turn
>the bulbs on or off is that there is sometimes almost 600V between the
>ballast and the bulbs (sometimes even more, upwards of 1300V, depending on
>the ballast) Finding a switch or relay rated for that can prove expensive,
>usually more than simply getting another ballast (ie: having two ballasts
>for two bulbs).
Your right... The reason I haven't replied to this thread for a while
was that I was doing some research, and the switch issue you mention
was exactly the item that stopped me in my tracks.
So, I took the ballast out of the hood, mounted it in my garage, and I
now have a nice new light.
I picked up one of those Hagen Glomat 2 thingies, and now I can run my
25w T-8 marine glow lap, or my T-12 30w GE cool white lamp, or both -
all I have to do is yank off an end cap. As a bonus, my hood is now
5lbs lighter, and 10x cooler than it was before. All for $40.
I'm happy, my fish look great, and no one got electrocuted! :)
>> Stay informed about: flourescent ballast question