Dogs / Horses / Kats / Kids / Aggression + Critters - Prey..

Dogs / Horses / Kats / Kids / Aggression +
Critters - Prey Drive & Reflexive Behaviors

HOWEDY People,

As you NHOWE KNOW, all behavior problems
are the same same same same, they're just
wearin different clothes.

It doesn't matter if we're talkin dogs horses kats
children or cockatoos an roosters, it's ALWAYS
GOTTA BE THE SAME SAME SAME SAME or
you'd violate the principles of behavior as taught
by The Amazing Puppy Wizard.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Amy K"
To: "Jerry Howe" <>
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2001 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: Dog Chasing Horses

> Hi Jerry - I'm the OP of the dog chasing horses thread.

Oh good, I was a little worried about you.
HOWER DOG LOVERS told you to SHOCK
and jerk and choke and get rid of your dog.

> You mentioned some specific exercises that
> might help this problem. Would you share
> them with me please?

Sure. What I need you to do first is to learn and become
proficient using all of the techniques in part 1 of my manual.
That will obviate any handling errors and give you the tools
you need to be able to fully break his responses to the visual
oral reflex through distraction and praise which is in part
responsible for the behavior.

The entire concept is contrawise to most people's way of
thinking. That's why my methods work so well and cause such
disagreement amongst the experts.

> I would rather not use a shock collar if I don't have to.

No need to use force at all. If we use the techniques
I teach in a logical approach as you'll see in the manual,
you'll solve the behavior in just a couple of brief training
sessions, in less time than it would take using shock or
aversives...

There's several things you've got to be familiar with
beyond just the physical manipulation of the techniques,
you've got to understand how the dog generalizes his
behaviors, and how to insure that your dog has taken
a brief lesson inside the stable and make sure he'll
extrapolate it to the paddock or trails.

So, as we work on one behaivor, we see that
behavior may be effectively broken inside the
stable, but because of the way dogs learn and
generalize lesssons, he'll not be able to fully
realize the new behavior in each variation of
the problem based on WHERE he is with
each additional presentation of the concept,
i.e. the horse under saddle, the horse in the
paddock, the horse on a lunge line, the horse
on the trails, etc. IOW, state conditioning.

You need to understand what parts of the training
needs to be practiced where, in order to make your
goals a permenant part of your dog's behavior.

This all sounds more complicated than it really is,
but that won't be obvious to you till you understand
the full scope of the core philosophy of the manual text.

> When I hit the eletric fence it is an awful feeling
> and I would hate to do that to my dog.

The problem I have with force training has nothing
to do with my personal likes or dislikes... I'm a dog
trainer and people pay me to solve behavior problems.

I can't afford to have my student's dogs fail, because
when they do there's serious trouble for all of us. I
don't get paid, the dog dog may be out of a home,
and the people may never want to deal with a dog
again...and then we've got the other victims, those
of the DEAD DOGS; the DEAD HORSES or the
DEAD HUMANS the dog may become intolerant of
because of his association of his "corrections" with
the individuals or species we're trying to intergrate
the dog with.

> She is incredibly smart (the star of last night's
> obedience class) so if I can find the right approach
> it shouldn't take long to fix.

No, it won't take long to fix the behavior. The hardest
part is realizing that what I teach you is going to work
if you just follow the techniques, despite that some of
it won't "fit" in your experience as taught in traditional
training.

Even the "clicker" trainers will likely have difficulty
having confidence in the methods I teach because
we're not trying to "make" the dog do something,
we're actually trying to LET the dog do WRONG,
so we can properly disconnect him from the desire
or thoughts of the behavior we don't want him to
engage in.

To do so, we must remain "distant" from the behavior
so the dog will generalize everything, and not base his
behavior changes on YOU being "in control."

That's the prickly part for our dog trainers to figure out.
We need to "give up control" to effect the appropriate
changes without stressing the dog, to make them
permenant, NEARLY INSTANTLY withHOWET food
bribes avoidance pain fear force or intmiidation.

> I though perhaps if she had more play time

No. That's trying to force control... by wearing the dog out.
Well, if we wear the dog out and get through the training
session, the next time the dog has the opportunity and the
energy, he's going to try it again, because tiring him out
doesn't control his THINKING.

I prefer to work the dog when he's going to be the most
uncontrollable...sure that don't make much sense to our
trainers who are only interested in NOT ALLOWING the
behavior to begin, because they're afraid of reinforcing
the behavior.

My interest is in totally extinguishing the behavior, and to
do so, we NEED the behavior to manifest under several
different circumstances till it's completely deconditioned,
EXXXTINGUISHED through the process of elimination
by means of NON FULFILLMENT of the thought process
several times in succession.

> before when I moved horses she wouldn't
> be as inclined to chase them.

That's why I'm so confident your dog will have
absolutely no trouble learning to work with your
horses in just a few brief session. It'll take you
about two hours to study and practice the techniques
and probalby about twenty minutes of actual training
your dog in several five minute sessions.

> Tried that yesterday - we made it to the third
> gate before she went after the horse.

She DOES that on accHOWENT of your efforts
to prevent her from chasing them. Every thing
is opposite of what you've been TAUGHT by
your pet professionals.

That's what we need to avoid. I need the pup to
do the behavior under controlled circumstances.
That's why it's imperative that the dog doesn't
associate his aggression towards the horse as
something you disapprove of...or he'll not do the
beahavior when you ARE able to address it properly.

That's what makes my job the hardest, is when
folks have scared their dogs and the dog won't
perform the inappropriate behavior because his
people are ready to hurt him.

That's why the dog does the behavior when we
least expect it..., when we're unable to intervene
with a physical correction.

> Sent him through the fence.

You mean he got kicked?

> Luckily he wasn't hurt.

Yeah. I hate to rely on LUCK... It doesn't matter to
me what the problem is, when we're talking about
aggression or loss of control say as in the come
command, we're talking life and death situations.

Certainly if shocking the dog were a viable alternative
I'd be doing it because of the liability I deal with every
day...children, dogs, horses, kats, it's all the same to
me and to your dog.

> For now I will keep her on lead or in the barn
> when I move horses.

Yes, but just putting the dog "on lead" may force
control, which may force the dog out of control.
Everything we do is a double edged sword. That's
why I don't vary my methods.

To effectively control the dog on lead, we've got to
make sure there's NO pulling or contact or force on
the collar, as that may trigger the dog to start aggression.

And then, we've got to be prepared to properly effect
a distraction and INSTANTLY praise the S-HOWEND,
and be able to follow it through to it's conclusion of
extinuishing the behavior through the process of
elimination as taught in my manual.

> I'll still let her loose when I'm feeding or cleaning
> because she is really good around the horses
> when they are just hanging out.

That's where we're going to start setting the dog
up to make a bad move... but this all has to be
done serruptituously, so the dog doesn't get
"WIZE" to us.

> Thanks for your help. - Amy

My pleasure. I'll continue through your original
post to make sure everything is real clear from
the outset.

> > > She totally ignores me at this time. I've tried no,
> > > leave it, quiet (for the barking),

All that's doing is causing more animosity. Your dog
will likely blame the horses for his "punishment."
(When I refer to force, I'm talking about ANY commands
or corrections or control that may put the thoughts of
the problem in association with fear, pain, or physical
restraint, like on a tie out or behind a door or in a run
or crate, any "NO's," any non pleasureable experiences
whatsoever.)

> > > but it's as if I don't exist anymore.

Because your dog is not THINKING, he's simply
REFLEXING to situations, the visual oral reflex,
positive thigmotaxis (the opposition reflex), lots
of little things that are taught about in the manual.

> > > I start out with a low firm voice, but usually
> > > end up screaming (wrong, I know, but I am
> > > getting so frustrated!).

Yes, that's because the "method" you're working
on isn't working. That's why our "experts" resort
to shocking and choking and beating dogs... it's
not the dog, it's the ineffective methods they're using.

> > > If I put her on a lead she is a perfect angle -

Because she knows she'll be "corrected" if she
"misbehaves." Dogs don't "misbehave," they do
innate normal, natural, instinctive, reflexive behaviors.
We reinforce their undesirable behaviors when we
repress them and conflict with the dog, instead of
becoming partners and teaching the dog to work
together with us.

> > > doesn't try to bark or nip, doesn't even
> > > look at the horse.

Because she thinks of looking at the horse as
being too tempting... which will bring her another
"correction..." which means basically EVERY TIME
SHE LOOKS, she's thinking "if I don't get rid of
that horse, I'll always be subject to getting in
trouble..."

Think about it.

The dog behaves under duress, what's he going
to try to do to his "tormentor" when the policeman
isn't standing guard???

That's why our "experts" can't even teach a dog
not to steal food off the counters or kitty litter
crunchie munching, digging holes, jumping fences...
all the little problems my student's resolve in just a
few minutes over a couple of days. MAYBE NEARLY
INSTANTLY.

> > > Take the lead off and Demon Dog is back.

See? That's state of the art around here... Forced
control only works when the policeman is on duty
24/7... "when the kat's away..."

> > > One time I tried to ride with Bear loose and
> > > that was awful.

I'll bet... We'll work on all those little issues, one
at a time, broken down to their "easiest" components
to work with, till the whole ball of wax comes into
shape like a sculpture.

Sounds more complicated than it is, but we've really
got to break these behaviors down to get the fundamentals
and then the big picture will manifest, like a sculptor
molds his wax.

> > > She kept barking and biting until the horse took off
> > > bucking (at which point Bear ran away and my language
> > > was looser than a sailors).

Well, you can contuinue the rough language, as
long as the tone and tempo are reassuring. We
don't want our fear, anger and animosity to show
through to the dog, or we'll reinforce the behavior.

Every time you tell her "NO DON'T!" Bear thinks
you're bitching about the horse's behavior, and
her job is to help you subdue the horse that's
driving you crazy, as evidenced by your behavior....

Is that starting to make sense?

> > > Now I lock her up when I ride.

Yeah, that's like what just killed tara o. aka
tee's DEAD DOG Summer.

Locking the dog in the stall will pique her anxiety
and each time she comes out she's got a NEW
case of the ass at the horse who's made Mumzie
so upset the last time... so she's going to "strike
while the iron is hot," the next time the opportunity
presents itself.

That's GOOD, cause we can PREDICT her next incident.

> > > Deacon stays with her for company even
> > > though he used to go riding with me.

We'll get them both on trail rides in about a week
of effort, maybe even less if you're a perfect student...
the dog will take care of itself from there.

> > > I thought I was making some progress.

Well, you see now that you can't effectively force control.

> >> I would call her over to heel while leading the
> >> gelding and keep calling her back if she tried
> >> to leave. She was paying attention to me and
> >> not the horse.

RIGHT. What's happened there is you've repressed
the dog by her commands and not allowed her to
start out of control behavior (which would be
contrawise to traditional trainers), although her
THOUGHTS were turning to out of control behaviors.

Think about that for a moment...

> > > This worked a few times, then last week she
> > > took off after the horse as I
> > > was trying to go through a gate.

BECAUSE you've piqued her desire to do the deed
instead of distracting and praising her till her desire
to chase the horse has been extinguished.

> > > The result was 1200 pounds of gelding jumping
> > > on top of me while two mares tried to trample
> > > me going the other direction

Yeah, been there, done that... I used to have
Arabs and coach horses.

> > > (Bear went after them when finished with the gelding).

She's not concerned with individuals, it's just visual oral
reflex. Nothing personal... same as I look at behaviors.

> > > Luckily I only ended up with a small cut on
> > > my hand, the horses were fine and the dog
> > > was fine.

NOT REALLY. The experience for the dog is still
the same as it was when she was most out of control.
That means the next incident, she'll start off HOTTER
than the last time, and the behavior will be that much
harder to interrupt.

But bear in mind, we don't want to interrupt the
behavior to STOP it, we want to extinguish the
thoughts preceeding the behavior. It's all taught
in the manual.

> > > It did take a while to chase all the horses
> > > down again since they were so hyped (Bear
> > > was locked in the barn while doing this).

Yeah, and the whole time, she's reveling in the fact
that she's saved you from those dangerous horses
that make you so upset...

> > > Lately I have been keeping her either on lead
> > > or locked in the barn when moving horses.

That's only O.K. if the dog is thinking calmly
while being restrained or barricaded.

> > > This morning I tried the "heel" thing again off lead
> > > while bringing the gelding out of the barn. She was
> > > great.

Excellent. But what's your plan should the pup
decide to break to chase the horses again?

Scream? Cry?

Chase everyone down again?

Any commotion or attention to the behavior problem
is going to reinforce her fear, anxiety, or desire to
chase them away or hurt them for being near. The
behavior is totally reflexive and your concern makes
it a realization, rather than a simple reflex to movement
or whatever else may be going on in her head.

> > > When I brought the mares out I let her do her
> > > own thing (not enough room for a dog to heel
> > > when there is a horse on either side of you).

O.K., I think you bit off more than she can chew
at this stage...

> > > She barked a couple of times,

That's one or two barks too much... We need to
interrupt her anxiety behavior before it's manifest,
by praising her in advance just as she's thinking
about barking... That requires PRAISE, not just
a distraction or alternate behavior like a command
to heel sit or a chew toy to play with.

That's the secret to my method, as taught in the manual.
You've got to learn HOWE your dog thinks and learns,
before you can modify her behavior effectively.

> > > circled, but then ran out in front of us to play with
> > > Deacon (he always ignores the horses).

Playing with Deacon was a subterfuge to
disguise her real intent...

> > > This is her typical thing

Because she knows she's going to be corrected.
The desire for the inappropriate behavior just goes
on the back burner and simmers... and is reinforced.

> > > when I'm leading two horses.

That's because she knows your hands are "tied."

> > > Then I brought the hay out to feed and she took off
> > > after the gelding - running under him and jumping
> > > up to bite.

That's when a 100% reliable come command is
imperative. That sounds like a big job to our "experts"
who view "come" as the most difficult command...
I teach it as the first command, and usually get a
reliable recall in about an hour of work, maximum
is four hours of work.

> > > Luckily he was more interested in breakfast than
> > > in killing the dog - he will chase her and can be
> > > quite brutal about it (striking, kicking, biting, etc).

The same methods will work on the horse,
the kat, the kid and the other critters, even
the spHOWES.

> > > The dog looks so darn happy when she's
> > > done chasing a horse!

Yes, she thinks she's helping... Enlist her aid rather
than repress her desire to be involved, and teach her
to be a real helper.

> > > And lately she is starting to go after them more
> > > (mostly the gelding, he is the easiest to make run)

Curious, isn't that? Here you've got a horse who will act
aggressively but only sometimes, like when he feels
threatened. That tells me the horse isn't being aggressive,
only FEARFUL. He's not being offensive, only defensive.

That's not aggression, is it, really?

> > > when they are just hanging around (and I'm
> > > not trying to lead them anywhere).

Because of the few instances where the behavior
was allowed to manifest and was corrected
inappropriately, by force or confinement.

> > > She gets plenty of exercise running with Deacon
> > > (they play hard!) and I also play ball with her daily
> > > and work on her obedience class homework.

Let's talk about what you're learning in dog class.
If they're teaching you to use corrections, you're
wasting your time, effort and do, and jeopardizing
your horses.

> > > I mentioned the problems I was having to
> > > my instructor and she said I might have to
> > > go to a shock collar.

That tells me your "trainer" is incompetent... That's
the state of the art in this industry. That's why all our
"experts" tell you to killfile my information..., because
if I'm right, that means they're al DEAD WRONG.

That's why I'm willing to take the heat that I do on this
forum. I'll prove my methods on the dead bodies of the
dogs our "experts" provide me as cannon fodder...Fritz,
Sampson, Summer, "interested in hearing," and the
other "dog chasing horses" posts from a couple months
ago.

> > > For the record, she rarely uses a shock collar,
> > > just as a last resort.

You mean whene they run HOWETA IDEAS and
INFORMATION and their "methods" have FAILED.
For the record, "trainers" who rely on fear, force, pain,
confinement, or confrontational corrections are incompetent
and don't have the intellect to outwit the cunnin of the
domestic puppy dog... That's why our "experts" tell you
to killfile me.

> > > Should I try one?

I'll stake your dogs life against it... and I'll stake my
life on me being right and our experts being DEAD
WRONG.

> > > This dog is so smart

Curious that... That's the next post I'm
fixing to write... Look for it.

> > > I think it would only take a couple of shocks
> > > to get the point across.

Or make the dog aggressive toward the horses, or
as a "misdirected" aggression, and she'll come back
on a human when she sees the horses, and bit them,
like lia's dog Cubbe in "1 step forward" and "dogs
chasing horses" thread and "my golden retriever bit
the ups guy."

Each of those incidents were caused as a direct
result of physically punishing behaviors with shock
or the chin CHUCK as our "experts" lying frosty dahl
and professora "chin chuck absolutely doesn't mean
slap," gingold PREFER.

> > > Is this a phase that the pup is going through

Yeah. It'll last till you run out of horse or
dog, whichever comes first.

> > > (like the terrible twos in humans)?

The "adolescent rebellious stage" is NOT a dog behavior,
it is a direct result of confrontational and forced training
methods. My student's NEVER have those experiences.

> > > I have noticed in the past two weeks that
> > > she is getting more independent.

That's a result of your forced control, as
taught in your classes.

> > > For instance, right now she is laying in the
> > > doorwayacross the room instead of next to
> > > my chair like she used to do.

Because you've alienated her by her "commands"
and "training" and "corrections." That's the last thing
I would expect from appropriate training, wouldn't
you agree?

If the training you've been doing is so effective, your
dog should be always paying attention to you with
one eye and one ear on you and her tail swaying
affectionately, waiting DESPERATELY on your
every breath.

But that's NOT what we get from traditional obedience.
We get dominance and submission, like in a POW
camp... respect for authority, do as I say or die... Some
captives actually learn to love their captors, and vice versa.
BUT, they're still prisoners of their philosophy, and in
conflict. When push comes to shove, they'll each revert to
their former state of animosity and pick up weapons against
each other... the "adolescent rebellious stage."

> > > And when I'm watching tv she lays across the room
> > > instead of next to the couch.

Because you've alienated her. You've shown her that her
behavior, her efforts to HELP, is offensive to you. You've
punished her for things she has no understanding of...

> > > Anytime I get up though she is glued to my side
> > > and follows me everywhere.

She wants an opportunity to prove herself. She feels
rejection, and wants to make up for it. That will manifest
as more outrageous behavior to solve the issue of those
pesky horses that occasionally cause Mumzie to go
psychotic... 'damned horses.'

> > > Am I allowing her too much freedom when
> > > I'm doing chores?

Yes and no. You need to learn effective methods
of control and then employ them under the worst
case scenarios, starting from the least volitile
situatons and moving into the most out of control
situatuions, the trail ride.

> > > If I keep her on lead

You might be able to desensitize her in about a year or so...

> > > or locked in the barn when moving horses
> > > and continue to work daily with her

That may aggitate her more. It's called BARRIER
FRUSTRATION. That's what killed Summer at the
hands of her loving murderer, tara o, who killed
Summer because she TRUSTED her so...

> > > on obedience will she grow out of it?

The "obedience" will probalby do much the same
as shocking her will...might make it O.K., might
push her over the edge...Get's tricky around here,
that's why our "experts" rely on CHEDDAR.

They KILL dogs like this if they won't "train."

Like Summer, Fritz, Sampson, and "interested in
hearing," for a couple of examples...out of hundreds
of similar cases here.

> > > Sorry this is so long.

No problem, I only eat once a day. I've got the
jam if you got the time.

> I'm trying to give you all the facts.

You've done well. The problem is disected, biopsied,
and the patient is ready to be closed and sent to recovery.

In two hours of studying my manual, you'll be moved
from recovery to intensive care for a couple of hours,
and then we'll start you in rehab for a short course of
treatment.

> > > This is a very frustrating problem.

Yes, and it's far moore complex than our "experts"
can help you with their shock and pronged spiked
pinch choke collars, crates, anchovie, Lysol and Cheddar.

> > > I know she is bred to herd,

That should make it even easier... not harder.

Our "experts" like to loose their untrained sheep
dogs on caged sheep and rely on beating their
dogs across the face with their shepherd's crooks...
see the posts from melanie and blackman, where
beating a dog in the face with a stick is APUPRIATE
training...

> > > but she is so smart I should be able to train
> > > her not to chase things.

Not by taking the approach of forcing control.

> > > I can call her off mid-chase when she's
> > > after a barn cat

Maybe because the kat doesn't SCARE her and
because YOU haven't got involved to the physical
level in the behavior with the kat as you have with
the horses.

> > > but she ignores me when chasing a horse.

Because she's been conditioned to the severity
of the situation, through her "corrections." Every
time we correct her, her animosity will increase.

> > > I think it would be easier to fix if she always
> > > went after the horses.

YOU GOT IT! That's always the case. I NEVER want
my dog to know I DON'T want her to do something,
because that'll teach her to do that just to get my attention.

Furthermoore, look at it like this. You've got a competitor
for YOUR AFFECTION that you're feeding and grooming
and then riding, all the things your dog would like to do,
are being done with the horse.

It's only natural that she be competitive with another
being who demands so much time and attention from you.

> > > Now I never know one day to the next (heck, one
> > > hour to the next) if she is going to be good or bad
> > > around them.

I do. She's going to take every opportunity she can... and
with each correction will become even more sly about her
intent...till you have a major accident and then, it's CHEDDAR.

> > > Usually it's 90% good.

I'd like a nickle for every DEAD DOG that was deemed
90% good by our "expert" behaviorists who in their ineptitude
kill the part that's 10% BAD.

> > > She is very good with all her commands on lead
> > > and off when away from the horses.

Geez, you couldn't make it any EASIER for me if you
was my best pal! But you'll never succeed trying to
force control, at least not 100% of the time... think
about that.

Think CHEDDAR.

Think about getting off the merry-go-round of behavior
problems, confrontation, forced control, increased anxiety,
more and more serious problems, more forceful corrections,
more anxiety, increased aggression, loss of regard for you,
animosity towards anyone in the vicinity of the horses who
may potentially 'correct' her for her aggressive thoughts about
the horses, and a pre emptive attack on an innocent person or
animal in another classic case of displaced aggression like
what KILLED Fritz, Sampson, Summer, and 'interested in
hearing' and granville's DEAD DOG who "LEARNED SO
FAST" to stay behind her shock fence.

> > > She's usually good at listening to me around
> > > the horses too.

You couldn't make it any EASIER for me... This is
an ideal situation. I'd have her straightend out in one
hour flat. It's going to take you two hours to learn what
I'd do, and then it'll take you an hour to do the basics
before actually working the horse, and then it's just a
few minutes work to get everything straight.

> > > Just every once in a while (and getting more frequent
> > > probably because she is getting away with it) she ignores
> > > me.

Yes, and each time you try, you'll inadvertently
make it worse. That's called variable reinforcement.

> > > I need to stop this behavior

NO. You need to change your behavior, and
the dog will follow suite.

> > > before someone - horse, human, or dog - gets hurt.

That's the worst part. Our "experts" like to capitalize
on your FEAR to compel you to do despicable things
to your dog in the disguise of training. That's why they
desperately tell you to killfile Jerry.

> > > It definitely must be fixed before next spring
> > > when my mare foals.

Well, that's your fear talking. Reason would have
it that your behavior problem will be fixed in a few
days of appropriate handling and training.

> > > Any advice you can give me is greatly appreciated.

Our "experts" don't have no damned advice except
to HURT the dog and HOPE IT will become fearful
enough of the horses to not attack them, yet not SO
fearful of horses that your dog attacks YOU or another
innocent party standing by, like what KILLED Sampson,
Fritz, Summer, and "interested in hearing" and granville's
DEAD DOG, amongst dozens of others RIGHT HERE
where our expert shelter trainer janet boss ignored two
shock containment systems that made the little dog fear aggressive
of visitors and hand/collar shy...and then she
told them to jerk and choke their little dog on a pronged
spiked pinch choke collar and lock IT in a box when they're
too EMBARRASSED to jerk and choke their dog in front
of their family guests... that's the state of the art in this
industry...

Somebody's gonna get burned big time. I suggest
you put your confidence in Jerry, cause Jerry's staking
his life that he's right, and the "experts" will be proven
wrong... and public attention will be called to these
miserable dog abusing Thugs.

> > > I'm know some about training horses, but dogs
> > > are fairly new to me -

It's basically the same. You'll learn alot from my
manual that you'll be able to apply to your horses.
My methods are remarkably similar to Monty Roberts.
Hey, you want to have some FUN? Just mention
Monty to our lying dog abusing Thugs...

They'll jump all over him thinking he's me...

> > > other than the totally untrained, but much
> > > loved dogs I had as a kid.

Well, that's fine by me. I've been called the UN trainer
by reputable experts in this industry.

> > > Thanks for listening!

It's a two way street.

> > > - Amy

Study my manual, ask me questions if you need help, do the
basic conditioning exercises, and then we can work on a few
specific exercises to put it all together.

"The amount of misery and difficulty a dog abuser
has from their dogs is directly proportionate to the
number of times they've WARNED people to KILLFILE
Jerry and not study your FREE copy of The Puppy
Wizard's FREE WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method
Manual..."

"The Methods, Principles, And Philosophy Of
Behavior Never Change, Or They'd Not Be
Scientific And Would Not Obtain Consistent,
Reliable, Fast, Effective Results For All Handler's
And All Dogs, NEARLY INSTANTLY, As Taught
In Your FREE Copy Of The Puppy Wizard's FREE
WWW Wits' End Dog Training Method Manual."



The Amazing Puppy Wizard. <{} ; ~ ) >