DIY fluidized filter

Ron Hansen wrote:

> How would one measure the flow from the Eheim?

Using two highly expensive and hard to obtain instruments...

a) Bucket
b) Stopwatch

No extra charge. ;-)

-D
--
"When you've lost your ability to laugh, you've lost your ability to
think straight." -To Inherit the Wind
 >> Stay informed about: DIY fluidized filter 

>high a flow. Only repeated experimentation and re-building will allow
> >you to get *exactly* what you want.
>
> Not really. You could also do the necessary calculations beforehand. I'd
> recommend getting a text on Unit Operations (part of the Chemical
Engineering
> curriculum of all universities) and reading on fluidized beds. It's not
too
> complicated once you know the basic parameters.
>
>
After college I go to the library to find some literature to gain more
insight about FBF. Can you give me also the name of a journal that discusses
topics like this one or give a hint that's interesting? Otherwise I will use
the search engine of the library.
I asked these questions because I study computer science and business
administration and I'm not familiair with this subject.
 >> Stay informed about: DIY fluidized filter 

Victor M. Martinez wrote:
> Hedoli <hedoli.RemoveThis@xs4all.nl> wrote:
>
>>After college I go to the library to find some literature to gain more
>>insight about FBF. Can you give me also the name of a journal that discusses
>>topics like this one or give a hint that's interesting? Otherwise I will use
>
>
> A journal wouldn't be of much use, since those focus on new developments.
> Just search for a book with the words "unit operations" in the title. I can't
> remember the name of the authors of the one I used as an undergrad, it's
> been a long time. :)
>

I just flipped through my copy of McCabe, Smith, and Harriott's "Unit
Operations of Chemical Engineering" and it had a section on fluidized
beds. It will probaby take a little additional reading beyond that one
section to understand all of the variables, but it should not be too
bad. I agree that a journal would be beyond the scope of what is needed
for this application.

Brian
 >> Stay informed about: DIY fluidized filter 

> I just flipped through my copy of McCabe, Smith, and Harriott's "Unit
> Operations of Chemical Engineering" and it had a section on fluidized
> beds. It will probaby take a little additional reading beyond that one
> section to understand all of the variables, but it should not be too
> bad. I agree that a journal would be beyond the scope of what is needed
> for this application.
>


Yes, I found a book in the library:
McCabe, W.L.; Smith, J.C.; Harriot, P.; Unit operations of chemical
engineering, 6th ed., Boston, McGraw-Hill

Thanks,
Henk
 >> Stay informed about: DIY fluidized filter 

"Ron Hansen" <aquaria DeleteThis @ronaldhansen.com> wrote in message
news:i8mdfv0bcftphcgq21vtt1cd253qaurdho@4ax.com...
> Most smaller FBFs have a flow requirement around 125-150 GPH. I can
> give you the exact dimensions of a seastorm 100 for comparison. It runs
> well with an Aquaclear 301 powerhead.
>

I'm interested in the dimensions of a seastorm 100, would you give them to
me?
Thanks,
Henk.
 >> Stay informed about: DIY fluidized filter 

This message is not archived
 >> Stay informed about: DIY fluidized filter 

Ron Hansen wrote:

> Yeah, I thought of that right after I posted the message. There's
> still a problem.
>
> It would require two tests:
>
> a) filter dirty
> b) filter clean
>
> The closer these two readings are to each other, the thinner the unit
> can be, the further apart, the wider (or emptier) it must be. A
> thinner
> unit is more effective (more sand actually in suspension). The
> problem is that if there is a wide swing, the amount of sand/height
> and width of column that is enough to eliminate blowout when the
> filter is clean,
> will then result in compacted sand when it is dirty. It's going to be
> very hard to design one that can accommodate a wide swing and not have
> a bacteria die-off when the pressure drops.
>
> Wouldn't it be easier to size it so that 25%-50% of the eheim output
> flow runs through a bypass? Then you simply crank down on the valve
> in the bypass to increase the flow to the FBF.

Um...

Too much thinking going on, dude. This is one situation where giving up
30 or so IQ points actually helps.

One suggestion is to make the FBF transparent, then use it as a visual
indicator that your filter needs cleaning.

By cleaning the filter you solve the root problem (and keep your tank
healthy) rather than treating a symptom (low flow rate due to dirty
filter).

No extra charge again, but I'm running out of freebies... ;-)

-D
--
"When you've lost your ability to laugh, you've lost your ability to
think straight." -To Inherit the Wind
 >> Stay informed about: DIY fluidized filter 

This message is not archived
 >> Stay informed about: DIY fluidized filter 

This message is not archived
 >> Stay informed about: DIY fluidized filter 

Wow, just priced the rainbow unit up here in Canada at #260ish the 600 was
$100 more. where did you get that price from?

Ron Hansen <aquaria.DeleteThis@ronaldhansen.com> wrote in
news:991nfv4m4i20neiaibpnqqod6p43vh833p@4ax.com:

> That's what I do, but the reason I bought one on eBay is because of the
> price of clear PVC (forget extruded acrylic pipe - it's insanely
> expensive). I've only found one company that sells it by the foot
> (instead of the 10 foot) and they want about $15-20 for enough to make
> one FBF. Also, mine is smoked plastic to inhibit algae growth (and the
> homemade one probably wouldn't be).
>
> Remember, you can get a Seastorm 100 (100 gallons) for about $20-$25 and
> you can get a Rainbow Lifegard/Pentair Aquatics FB300 (300 gallons) will
> set you back $30-$45 (or $55 new).
>
>
>
> Donald Kerns <kernsdSPAMLIGHTNINGROD.DeleteThis@aol.com> wrote:
>
>>Ron Hansen wrote:
>>
>>> Yeah, I thought of that right after I posted the message. There's
>>> still a problem.
>>>
>>> It would require two tests:
>>>
>>> a) filter dirty
>>> b) filter clean
>>>
>>> The closer these two readings are to each other, the thinner the unit
>>> can be, the further apart, the wider (or emptier) it must be. A
>>> thinner
>>> unit is more effective (more sand actually in suspension). The
>>> problem is that if there is a wide swing, the amount of sand/height
>>> and width of column that is enough to eliminate blowout when the
>>> filter is clean,
>>> will then result in compacted sand when it is dirty. It's going to be
>>> very hard to design one that can accommodate a wide swing and not have
>>> a bacteria die-off when the pressure drops.
>>>
>>> Wouldn't it be easier to size it so that 25%-50% of the eheim output
>>> flow runs through a bypass? Then you simply crank down on the valve
>>> in the bypass to increase the flow to the FBF.
>>
>>Um...
>>
>>Too much thinking going on, dude. This is one situation where giving up
>>30 or so IQ points actually helps.
>>
>>One suggestion is to make the FBF transparent, then use it as a visual
>>indicator that your filter needs cleaning.
>>
>>By cleaning the filter you solve the root problem (and keep your tank
>>healthy) rather than treating a symptom (low flow rate due to dirty
>>filter).
>>
>>No extra charge again, but I'm running out of freebies... ;-)
>>
>>-D
>
>
 >> Stay informed about: DIY fluidized filter