Canned food labels 102

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 08:04:51 GMT, Newbie <newbie.DeleteThis@no.spam> wrote:

>Starting with no experience or knowledge, initially I just bought the
>cheapest. My cat loved it.
>
>Then I read around a little and learned to avoid "by-products" as well
>as grains at the top of the ingredient list. (The cat was underwhelmed
>by the new "premium" food, but a little experimenting showed it's the
>paste that she objected to. As long as got chunks/flakes in gravy, she
>was ok.)
>
>Now I am hearing opinions from experienced users here that byproducts
>are ok because when cats kill a mouse they eat byproducts (Phil), and
>also grains may be ok in moderation as well (Steve).
>
>So I am back to square one, just a little better informed, but confused
>anyway. When I am reading canned food labels in the store, what do I
>look for, how do I classify a can as good or bad?

The bottom line is "does the specific cat thrive on the specific food
or foods?"

If the most recommend food doesn't suit the cat, it's bad; if the cat
is bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, and totally healthy on some cheap
brand, it's good.

--
T.E.D. (tdavis@gearbox.maem.umr.edu)
SPAM filter: Messages to this address *must* contain "T.E.D."
somewhere in the body or they will be automatically rejected.
 >> Stay informed about: Canned food labels 102 

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 07:13:48 -0400, "Phil P." <phil.RemoveThis@maxshouse.com> wrote:

>
>"Newbie" <newbie.RemoveThis@no.spam> wrote in message
>news:270720050305023407%newbie@no.spam...
>> Starting with no experience or knowledge, initially I just bought the
>> cheapest. My cat loved it.
>>
>> Then I read around a little and learned to avoid "by-products" as well
>> as grains at the top of the ingredient list. (The cat was underwhelmed
>> by the new "premium" food, but a little experimenting showed it's the
>> paste that she objected to. As long as got chunks/flakes in gravy, she
>> was ok.)
>>
>> Now I am hearing opinions from experienced users here that byproducts
>> are ok because when cats kill a mouse they eat byproducts (Phil), and
>> also grains may be ok in moderation as well (Steve).
>>
>> So I am back to square one, just a little better informed, but confused
>> anyway. When I am reading canned food labels in the store, what do I
>> look for, how do I classify a can as good or bad?
>>
>> Thanks.
>
>1. Try to find a food in which the first 3 or 4 ingredients are meat
>products. Foods that have meat products as only the first and second
>ingredients could still contain more plant products than meat. Ingredients
>are listed in "descending order of predominance by weight". However, the
>combined total weight of all the plant products could outweigh the meat-
>even though meat is the first ingredient.
>
>2. Try to find a food with a phosphorus content no higher than .2% 'as fed'
>or .9% 'dry matter basis'. If you accustom your cat to moderate-to-low
>phosphorus diets at a young age, it will be much easier to maintain the cat
>on low phosphorus diets later in life- which will be crucial if your cat
>develops CRF.
>
>3. Try to find a food with an 'ash' analysis of <5%. 2-3% (on the label) is
>ideal. The higher the 'ash' the less digestible the food.
>
>4. Try to find a food with fiber content <2%. High fiber reduces
>digestibility of proteins and fats and affects absorption for some vitamins
>and minerals. A high fiber content also increases fecal volume and reduces
>urine volume which could lead to urinary tract disorders. So, a food with a
>fiber content of about 1% max (on the label) would be ideal.
>
>
>Many foods meet these requirements, but the trick isn't only finding a food
>that meets all these requirements but one that your cat will like, too! You
>can make the selection a little easier by putting down a smorgasbord of 4 or
>5 foods that meet your requirements and let your cat choose the one she
>likes. Repeat the process the next day but without the food she chose the
>day before. If she chooses another food, repeat the process the next day
>and leave out that food. I know this sounds crazy but this is how to
>establish a group of foods that you know your cat will eat without going
>through numerous trials. This way you'll have a group of foods she likes
>and can rotate her diet. Personally, I believe in rotating foods from an
>early age, this will avoid fixed food preferences later in life and will
>make switching to a prescription diet much easier if the need arises.
>
>
>Phil
>
>
>
>
Subject: Cat food labels

Dry Matter Value Forumula
Look at the "Guaranteed Analysis" on a label
Subtract the moisture percentage from 100
Divide the resulting figure into the crude protein figure (disregard decimals when
dividing)
The result will be a close approximation of protein by dry matter value

(You can use the same formula to calculate the percentage of fat or fiber by dry matter
value.)

Example:

Here are figures from three different cat foods I happened to have on hand. They are from
three different manufacturers, which shall remain anonymous for purpose of this exercise.


Brand A Premium Canned Food: Protein, 8.5% | Moisture, 78%
Brand B Premium Dry Food: Protein, 32% | Moisture, 10%
Brand C "Supermarket Brand" Canned Food: Protein, 10% | Moisture: 78%

Brand A: Using the formula above, and subtracting the moisture from 100%, we divide the
remainder, 22 into the 8.5 protein content for a result of 38.5% protein by dry matter.

Brand B: 100 minus 10 equals 90, divided into 32 gives us 35.5%.

Brand C: 100 minus 78 equals 22 divided into 10 for 45%.

You can see in the example given that the two canned food brands contain more dry matter
protein content than Brand B, a dry food, which at first glance seems to contain far more
protein. In fact, by this test alone, one might think that Brand C (the "supermarket"
brand) is superior for protein content.

Not so fast!

Actually, the first two listed ingredients on Brand C's label are "meat by-products," and
"poultry by-products," which were listed under "What to Avoid" in the first part of this
series. The protein quality of this "supermarket" brand simply does not make the cut.

The 95%, 25%, 3% Rules

AAFCO has provided certain other rules for "truth in advertising" in cat foods. Don't let
those fancy designations such as "gourmet" or "feast" slip one past you. With these rules
you'll know at least the minimum your cat is getting of the advertised ingredient.
Here are the rules:
The 95% Rule
A cat food may not be labeled simply "Chicken for Cats," or "Chicken Cat Food," unless it
contains 95% or more chicken by total weight of the product.
The 25% Rule
Foods labeled "Chicken Entre," "Chicken Dinner," "Chicken Feast," or the like, must
contain 25% to 95% chicken. Combinations, such as "Chicken and Beef Dinner" must contain a
total of 25% to 95% of the combined meats, listed in order of quantity, and the second
meat listed must comprise at least 3% of the total weight. (Imagine ordering a "steak and
lobster" dinner and finding the "lobster" will barely fill a fork.)
The 3% Rule
A food labelled "Kitty Stew with Chicken" must contain 3% or more chicken. ("With" is the
optimum word here.)
"Flavor"
Barely worth mentioning here, but if you see something similar to "chicken flavored," be
assured that the product is unlikely to contain any chicken at all, as long as there is a
"sufficiently detectable" amount of chicken flavor. Since these "flavors" may be the
result of digests or by-products of the named animal, I'd avoid these at all costs.
 >> Stay informed about: Canned food labels 102 

On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 07:13:48 -0400, "Phil P." <phil.DeleteThis@maxshouse.com> wrote:

>
>"Newbie" <newbie.DeleteThis@no.spam> wrote in message
>news:270720050305023407%newbie@no.spam...
>> Starting with no experience or knowledge, initially I just bought the
>> cheapest. My cat loved it.
>>
>> Then I read around a little and learned to avoid "by-products" as well
>> as grains at the top of the ingredient list. (The cat was underwhelmed
>> by the new "premium" food, but a little experimenting showed it's the
>> paste that she objected to. As long as got chunks/flakes in gravy, she
>> was ok.)
>>
>> Now I am hearing opinions from experienced users here that byproducts
>> are ok because when cats kill a mouse they eat byproducts (Phil), and
>> also grains may be ok in moderation as well (Steve).
>>
>> So I am back to square one, just a little better informed, but confused
>> anyway. When I am reading canned food labels in the store, what do I
>> look for, how do I classify a can as good or bad?
>>
>> Thanks.
>
>1. Try to find a food in which the first 3 or 4 ingredients are meat
>products. Foods that have meat products as only the first and second
>ingredients could still contain more plant products than meat. Ingredients
>are listed in "descending order of predominance by weight". However, the
>combined total weight of all the plant products could outweigh the meat-
>even though meat is the first ingredient.
>
>2. Try to find a food with a phosphorus content no higher than .2% 'as fed'
>or .9% 'dry matter basis'. If you accustom your cat to moderate-to-low
>phosphorus diets at a young age, it will be much easier to maintain the cat
>on low phosphorus diets later in life- which will be crucial if your cat
>develops CRF.
>
>3. Try to find a food with an 'ash' analysis of <5%. 2-3% (on the label) is
>ideal. The higher the 'ash' the less digestible the food.
>
>4. Try to find a food with fiber content <2%. High fiber reduces
>digestibility of proteins and fats and affects absorption for some vitamins
>and minerals. A high fiber content also increases fecal volume and reduces
>urine volume which could lead to urinary tract disorders. So, a food with a
>fiber content of about 1% max (on the label) would be ideal.
>
>
>Many foods meet these requirements, but the trick isn't only finding a food
>that meets all these requirements but one that your cat will like, too! You
>can make the selection a little easier by putting down a smorgasbord of 4 or
>5 foods that meet your requirements and let your cat choose the one she
>likes. Repeat the process the next day but without the food she chose the
>day before. If she chooses another food, repeat the process the next day
>and leave out that food. I know this sounds crazy but this is how to
>establish a group of foods that you know your cat will eat without going
>through numerous trials. This way you'll have a group of foods she likes
>and can rotate her diet. Personally, I believe in rotating foods from an
>early age, this will avoid fixed food preferences later in life and will
>make switching to a prescription diet much easier if the need arises.
>
>
>Phil
>
>
>
>
Subject: Ash


What They Are Not Telling Us About Cat Food
(Or What's the FUS About Ash?)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

That tiny print in the fold of a bag of cat food is supposed to tell
us everything we need to know about whether the contents will keep our
beloved tabby in the pink, or corrode his kidneys. Yet most brands
obscure the information we need by providing too much information, and
leaving out what we are really looking for.
The other day I read about a dozen bags in the grocery store. Only one
mentioned ash content (it was much too high), and the one that claimed
to be good for a cat's urinary tract couldn't explain why it actually
is (if it is). If you have ever dealt with a cat's failing kidneys you
know that you want to do whatever you can from the first day you bring
that cute kitten into your home to keep those innards healthy, and all
the plumbing working.

So why can't they just have a urinary tract rating. A 1 would be best
for cats, especially male cats who are prone to developing urinary
problems. A 10 would be really really bad for them (but they like it
the best, kind of like Doritos).

The Real Deal:
Most cats don't even get FUS/FLUTD (feline urologic syndrome/feline
lower urinary tract disease), but why not be safe now and not sorry
later? Get good quality cat foods for life and you are likely to have
a healthy cat.

A good low-ash cat food should not contain more than 6% ash (based on
100% dry weight). Magnesium in a low-ash cat food should be no more
than 0.1% and no less than .05%. Try to avoid by-products. Get real
chicken, beef, lamb etc. Some say fish is suspect relative to
FUS/FLUTD.

If the bag doesn't tell the ash or magnesium content or other
information you are looking for, call the company or get another
brand.
 >> Stay informed about: Canned food labels 102 

"whayface" <whayface7540722.DeleteThis@yahoo.junk.com> wrote in message
news:m6ffe1tfsn5i9ncpdfnokans2s8bnl535n@4ax.com...


> The other day I read about a dozen bags in the grocery store. Only one
> mentioned ash content

Which country are you in? In the US, protein, fat, ash, fiber and moisture
must be listed in the Guaranteed Analysis.

>
> A good low-ash cat food should not contain more than 6% ash (based on
> 100% dry weight). Magnesium in a low-ash cat food should be no more
> than 0.1% and no less than .05%. Try to avoid by-products. Get real
> chicken, beef, lamb etc. Some say fish is suspect relative to
> FUS/FLUTD.

'Ash' simply refers to all noncombustible components of a diet and includes
most of the mineral content without regard to any single mineral. Therefore,
the ash is not related to magnesium content- at least not in canned foods.

"Ash" means nothing in relation to FLUTD or urolithiasis. The tendency of
struvite to form is a function of urine pH not ash or magnesium content. At
urine pH less than 6.1-2, struvite doesn't form regardless of the magnesium
concentration of the diet. The magnesium content of the diet only becomes
important when urine pH is greater than 6.1 Urine pH determines *if*
struvite will form- the magnesium content of the urine determines how much
struvite will form.

A high ash analysis does, however, affect the digestibility of the food.
The higher the 'ash' the lower the digestibility.

Finally, by-products are *more* nutritious than skeletal meat- which lacks
many essential vitamins and minerals. By-products are a significant part of
the cat's natural diet. Denigrating by-products was simply a marketing
concept.
 >> Stay informed about: Canned food labels 102 

"whayface" <whayface7540722.RemoveThis@yahoo.junk.com> wrote in message
news:c1ffe11u751ebmmc7kn52ueehu1qsqv3k1@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 07:13:48 -0400, "Phil P." <phil.RemoveThis@maxshouse.com> wrote:
> Subject: Cat food labels
>
> Dry Matter Value Forumula
> Look at the "Guaranteed Analysis" on a label
> Subtract the moisture percentage from 100
> Divide the resulting figure into the crude protein figure (disregard
decimals when
> dividing)
> The result will be a close approximation of protein by dry matter value
animal, I'd avoid these at all costs.

Wouldn't it be much easier to simply multiply the % protein by 4.54 for
foods that contain 78% moisture, and x 4 for foods that contain 75%
moisture? LOL!

e.g. 8.5% protein x 4.54 = 38.59% protein DMB
10 % protein x 4 = 40% protein DMB

The higher the moisture content, the higher the % DMB.

8.5 % x 4.54 (78% moisture) = 38.59% protein/DMB
8.5 % x 5.00 (80% moisture) = 42.5 % protein/DMB

The same rule applies to all other nutrients.
 >> Stay informed about: Canned food labels 102 

Phil P. <phil RemoveThis @maxshouse.com> wrote:

: 1. Try to find a food in which the first 3 or 4 ingredients are meat
: products...

Thanks. Just to clarify, is "meat products" meant to include "meat
byproducts"?

: ...
: Many foods meet these requirements, but the trick isn't only finding a food
: that meets all these requirements but one that your cat will like, too! You
: can make the selection a little easier by putting down a smorgasbord of 4 or
: 5 foods that meet your requirements and let your cat choose the one she
: likes...

This is brilliant. Can I get away with putting all of them one big
plate, or would their smells get intermingled and they must be
well-separated from each other, in different dishes, etc.?
 >> Stay informed about: Canned food labels 102 

"Newbie" <newbie.TakeThisOut@no.spam> wrote in message
news:270720051015312269%newbie@no.spam...
> Phil P. <phil.TakeThisOut@maxshouse.com> wrote:
>
> : 1. Try to find a food in which the first 3 or 4 ingredients are meat
> : products...
>
> Thanks. Just to clarify, is "meat products" meant to include "meat
> byproducts"?
>
> : ...
> : Many foods meet these requirements, but the trick isn't only finding a
food
> : that meets all these requirements but one that your cat will like, too!
You
> : can make the selection a little easier by putting down a smorgasbord of
4 or
> : 5 foods that meet your requirements and let your cat choose the one she
> : likes...
>
> This is brilliant. Can I get away with putting all of them one big
> plate, or would their smells get intermingled and they must be
> well-separated from each other, in different dishes, etc.?

I would put the foods in different dishes. If you use bowls, use w i d e
bowls so the cats' whiskers don't touch the sides. Small flat dishes are
the best.

Phil
 >> Stay informed about: Canned food labels 102 

Ted Davis <tdavis DeleteThis @gearbox.maem.umr.edu> wrote:

: The bottom line is "does the specific cat thrive on the specific food
: or foods?"
:
: If the most recommend food doesn't suit the cat, it's bad; if the cat
: is bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, and totally healthy on some cheap
: brand, it's good.

I know what you mean, but as in humans, certain ill-effects could be
gradual and not o obvious. I think it is not a bad idea to start with
some care rather than discover some avoidable bad news later.

My guess is once I have factored in nutrition quality, price, and my
cat's taste, only a few choices will be left.
 >> Stay informed about: Canned food labels 102 

"Newbie" <newbie.TakeThisOut@no.spam> schrieb im Newsbeitrag
news:270720050305023407%newbie@no.spam...
: Starting with no experience or knowledge, initially I just bought the
: cheapest. My cat loved it.
:
: Then I read around a little and learned to avoid "by-products" as well
: as grains at the top of the ingredient list. (The cat was underwhelmed
: by the new "premium" food, but a little experimenting showed it's the
: paste that she objected to. As long as got chunks/flakes in gravy, she
: was ok.)
:
: Now I am hearing opinions from experienced users here that byproducts
: are ok because when cats kill a mouse they eat byproducts (Phil), and
: also grains may be ok in moderation as well (Steve).
:
: So I am back to square one, just a little better informed, but confused
: anyway. When I am reading canned food labels in the store, what do I
: look for, how do I classify a can as good or bad?
:
: Thanks.

I give preference to: 1) food without sugar
and then to: 2) what the cats like
and last but not least: 3) to the price

Carola
 >> Stay informed about: Canned food labels 102 

"Newbie" <newbie.TakeThisOut@no.spam> wrote in message
news:270720051015312269%newbie@no.spam...
> Phil P. <phil.TakeThisOut@maxshouse.com> wrote:
>
> : 1. Try to find a food in which the first 3 or 4 ingredients are meat
> : products...
>
> Thanks. Just to clarify, is "meat products" meant to include "meat
> byproducts"?

Yes.
 >> Stay informed about: Canned food labels 102