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The Wits' End Dog Training Method
Jerry Howe
Copyright 8/24/2002
Phone: 1-888-WITSEND
Phone: 1-407-425-5092
ThePuppyWizard RemoveThis @EarthLink.net
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 3
HOW IS WITS' END DOG TRAINING DIFFERENT? 4
PART I
1. METHODOLOGY 6
1A. Common Misunderstandings 7
1B. Learn Today! 9
2. GETTING STARTED 12
2A. First Things First: Proper Lead Handling 12
2B. What is a Conditioned Reflex? 14
2C. How to Install a Conditioned Reflex and Teach Any Command in
Minutes 15
3. The "Hot" and "Cold" Exercise 19
4. The "Family Pack Leadership" exercise 20
5. Practicing the "Recall" or "Come" Command 22
6. Teach Any Command Through Conditioned Reflex 23
7. Use Sound to Break Bad Behavior! 24 (Also see conclusion)
7A. Other Examples of Sound to Correct Bad Behavior 26
7B. Unacceptable Expressions of Dominance 27
7C. More Subtle Examples of Unacceptable Dominance 28
7D. How to Correct Mouthing 29
7E. No Dogs on Beds! And Other Problems 33
7F. Housebreaking Technique
8. Roll-Over on the Alpha Rollover 34
The Alpha Rollover 34
9. Separation Anxiety Surrogate Toy Technique 36
9A.The Soggy Potato Chip Theory 37
10. THE WITS' END DOG TRAINING METHOD GLOSSARY 38
10A. State Conditioned Learning
10B.Training Behaviors Using Territorial Instinct
10C. Anchoring And Triggering States Of Mind
10D. Escape, Fence Jumping, Border/Perimeter Training
PART II
1. OBEDIENCE 46
2. ASK YOUR DOG TO WORK 47
2A. Back to Work 48
2B. Stay 49
2C. Sit From the Side 49
2D. Heel vs. Return to Heel 50
2E. Sit From the Front 51
3. THE HEELING PATTERN EXERCISE 52
3A. Down From the Side 56
3B. Leave Your Dog on a Stay Command 57
3C. Returning to the Heel Position 58
3D. Down From the Front 59
4. PRACTICING LONG STAY COMMANDS 60
5. STAND 62
Introduction
The Wits' End Dog Training Method is the fastest,
gentlest, most effective, comprehensive behavior
modification/obedience and protection training
technique available anywhere...
And now, it's FREE!!! It's copyright 2002 information,
so be advised: use it wisely, and use it often; use,
copy, and distribute it in it its entirety or none at all.
Our no force, no nonsense, no negative re-enforcement
approach is unique, systematic, and unconventional,
which means no dog is too young, too old, too large,
too small, too stubborn, too stupid or too bad, to train.
Specializing in problem dog behavior compelled us to
research new methods to instruct humans as well as
canines. All dog behavior problems are caused by our
ineffective and inappropriate efforts to control their
predictable, innate, normal, natural, instinctive, reflexive
responses to circumstances of their environment we
create for them.
Not everyone needs formal obedience training, but
you do need a dog you can live with, starting today,
not after lengthy training, not after your dog matures,
not when it's too late!
This requires a basic understanding of how your
dog thinks and learns. That, and the "Family Pack
Leadership" exercise, coupled with teaching the
"recall" or "come" command, are all that one needs
to effectively control the companion dog.
The mistakes your dog makes are neither mistakes
nor accidents. They are instinctive challenges to
your leadership and authority.
Wits' End Dog Training anticipates these impending
mistakes inherent to each phase of training, and
relies on them to turn the tables psychologically on
your pet to convince him you are his appropriate
leader, and make him want to do anything you ask.
Wits' End Dog Training is easy, quick, and foolproof,
and works with every time, with every canine, even
wolves!
The ability to think, rationalize, and solve problems
are learned qualities. Our enlightened methods
challenge the learning centers in your dog's brain.
These centers develop and continue to grow
exponentially. Wits' End Dog Training capitalizes
on praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy,
and timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition,
bribery, constant corrections, and scolding.
This manual will provide all the tools you will need
to learn to properly handle and train your dog. We
will address the most difficult behaviors with safe
effective tools, real answers, and common sense
advice.
Successful completion of our program means you
will never need another dog-training lesson again!
We train you to use the most effective, positive,
intelligent formulas, based on scientific,
psychological, and behavioral principles, and
accelerated learning techniques.
We will teach you how dogs learn, and how to
apply our forty years of knowledge and experience
to convince your dog to do anything you ask, the
first time, every time!
How is Wits' End Dog Training Different?
Wits' End Dog Training methodology is not
concerned with "training," but rather teaching the
development of the thought process, molding and
safeguarding the proper development of personality,
stable temperament, and good character.
The first thing you may notice is the lack of confusing
psychobabble. Sure, it's almost impossible to avoid
any use of psychobabble, but there's no need to
complicate learning new information with unnecessary
technical jargon.
In an effort to eschew obfuscation, and, for your
enjoyment, we have provided a list of several
psychological components of behavior. It is helpful
to realize that such terms exist, if for nothing else
but to reassure yourself that there is a basis for
some things we'll be discussing.
You'll find the terminology "eschew obfuscation"
listed near the end of part one of this manual, to
help make things more understandable, and lots
of other tips and examples.
Wits' End Dog Training is accustomed to criticism
from a variety of pet professionals. Holding different
values is not a crime, although sometimes it might
be considered a sin.
Consider how you would feel if you'd spent years
studying at our best universities, only to be shown
by a simple, uneducated dog trainer, that your
education is obsolete, that you've missed the point?
You'd respond, "What degrees do you hold?"
Forty years ago this trainer chose no longer to train
dogs according to the techniques available. It simply
wasn't worth doing. One experience of souring the
spirit of a beautiful, troubled dog, while following the
best advice available from the most accredited
sources anywhere, was enough for him.
Today, the state of the art in dog training industry
remains about the same. Modern dog training has
undergone little change since its inception in this
country as a sport at the end of World War II,
except to have gotten WORSE with the advent of
the pronged spiked pinch choke and shock and
aversive spray devices.
The methodology was and still is based on the
military model utilized on the Nazis' command dogs.
Fortunately, this trainer's family, being in the kennel
business, provided many more troubled dogs that
didn't have the alternative to decline training.
Necessity, being the mother of invention, prevailed.
There had to be a better way. I was at my Wits'
End, still am, and now you can be too! We will
never recommend seeking outside assistance or
books, abuse or use of unnatural, artificial, or
abusive training aids like electric shock collars,
choke collars, spiked collars, scolding, staring,
glaring, shaking, reprimanding, finger pointing,
gourmet food recipes used for bribery, threats,
intimidation, physical force, sharp commands,
punishing sounds, punishment of any kind, or
deviation from the Wits' End Dog Training Method.
It only takes one lapse of judgment to subvert the
deep trust established through our work. Food
bribes, or treats associated with training, although
generally endorsed by traditional trainers, is strictly
against everything we are trying to impart through
our unconventional approach.
Getting results at the expense of the higher attributes
of learning is, we think, ignorant and dangerous.
Any time your dog is more concerned with his gut
than your desires, you could be the next course
on the menu. We're training companion animals,
not pigs.
For obvious reasons, there are very few training
aids we can endorse. The head halter is good if
used properly. The product called Gentle Leader
is NOT gentle, nor does it lead.The instructions
for fitting the device INTENDS to force control
and HURT when "necessary."
There are many more reasons that we cannot
endorse any books or publications regarding
training tips. We recommend not reading other
training guides until you fully comprehend this
method.
Dogs, being pack animals, not unlike the human
family, have rules dictated by nature. We will
capitalize on their natural instincts, and, knowing
the nature of the beast, be prepared to anticipate
all of your dog's options to cooperate or subvert
your efforts to control him.
Your dog's job is to oppose you. Your job is to
negotiate then compromise; ask for more, then
give up; move to one of the appropriate defaults,
and then return to your original desired request.
Canine logic and strategy dictate our methodology.
Everything has a rational outcome that is arrived
at through the process of elimination of undesired
possibilities through a default system. Using this
approach we eliminate stress, confrontation, and
otherwise negative influences in the training session.
All we need to do is to establish a smooth flow of
information and allow thoughts to flow fluidly,
maintaining an open dialogue without becoming
focused on the desired command, or getting stuck
in a confrontation.
You are going to teach your dog an entire concept,
not just a simple, trite command. We are going to
obtain strict discipline without giving the sense of
being strict or disciplinarian. The Wits' End Dog
Training Method breaks ordinary dog training rules,
not a dog's spirit.
PART I
1. METHODOLOGY
2. There are a few prerequisites to obtain results
that will last a lifetime: Nothing will be accomplished
without first building the foundation. Addressing
behavioral problems without establishing these
fundamentals will waste time and further entrench
misbehavior.
Causes of failure may be:
Over training, or practicing training sessions longer
than directed. Our weekly (later monthly) training
session is no longer than 15 minutes. Daily training
(may be every other day) sessions take only four
minutes.
Training your dog in his backyard (don't make him
work in his "free area").
Not taking the time to be certain of your next move.
Not taking time to plan your best move.
"Telegraphing" your next move.
Misreading your dog's intent.
Interrupting your dog's thought process.
Physical contact of any kind while he's thinking.
Failure to praise every eye contact your dog makes
with you (every time your dog glances over toward
you requires spontaneous non-physical praise).
Generally not understanding the psychology
involved with teaching your dog to think, learn,
rationalize, and solve problems.
Being goal-oriented is a major error. We have a
methodology based on defaults. We expect you
will find some refreshing and incredible differences
in our system, quite opposed to what have been
formerly held as traditional truths.
Don't make learning this information any more
difficult than need be. Just relax, and don't try to
commit this text to memory. You'll probably learn
what's important on your first review of this material.
There are some confusing thoughts that will become
clear as you proceed. Then you may go back to
the specific techniques to practice, so don't try to
get it all at once.
Don't expect your pet professionals to understand
or accept our philosophy, we've tried. We don't
accept theirs. Just understand they are only doing
what they were taught.
Follow our system, not their logic. Once your dog
recognizes your goals, you lose. Lose? YES.
Everything is different at Wits' End.
Surely you'd think we'd want our dogs to recognize
our goals, but does Macey's tell Gimbel's?! We
want our dogs to work for us.
To work this system, one must expect things to
happen, allow for errors, and regard any effort,
even an attempt to leave, as positive effort. You
will soon learn that any effort or energy, even
negative, can be converted to positive.
Be consistent, and never try to make things happen.
Dogs don't like to be made to do things for no good
reason. Dogs are much smarter than most trainers
and behaviorists believe. The ability to think,
rationalize, and solve problems are learned qualities.
Most of your dog's mistakes are an integral part of
learning, and are welcomed here, as an opportunity
to teach and provide a positive learning experience.
1A. Common Misunderstandings
It seems everybody tells their dog "don't do this or
that." What he hears is only "do this or that." Dogs
don't understand the concept of "don't do something."
You'd communicate more clearly with your dog by
simply distracting him with a very brief, random
sound and telling him he's a good boy.
It's going to take you a while before you feel
comfortable telling your dog he's doing good,
when you've just caught him doing something
wrong.
There is a system here.
The problem is that most people think like people.
Most dogs think like dogs. It's all explained in the
chapter entitled "Learn Today."
That you can't correct a mistake after it has
happened is another fallacy that will be dispelled
in the chapter entitled "Using Sound To Break Bad
Behavior."
One of the most common behavioral problems we
hear is when your dog barks incessantly at people
approaching your home. Most people find themselves
fighting a losing battle, trying to stop their dog from
barking aggressively at the door, fence, window, etc...
Here's the scenario. Dog says: "Warning, warning,
there's someone out there!"
You say: "Stop That Noise!"
Dog says: "But there is someone out there!"
You say: "Get Off The Door, You're Scratching It."
Dog Says: "They're Coming In! You're Not Listening
To Me."
You Say: "You're Not Listening To Me! You're
Scratching The Door! They're trying to come In!"
Dog Says: "I'll Save You! Just Let Me Through This Door!"
You say: "Now I'm really mad! You're scratching
the door! I Can't Have Them In With You Acting Like This!"
Dog Says: "Me Too! I'm Really Mad! Just Let Me Through
This Door! I Can't Have Them In If They Are So Upsetting To You!"
The situation continues to worsen; as the dog does
what he knows is best for his home and you. The
dialogue just continues to become more confusing.
The more concerned you become about his behavior,
the more he believes you are worried about these
unknown persons. Your upset will make him protective.
He doesn't realize that it's his behavior you are
worried about.
Here's HOWE the scenario should be:
Dog says: "Warning, warning, warning, there's someone out there!"
You say: "GOOD BOY! Who's there?"
Dog says: "I don't know, but you'd better be careful!"
You say: "Good boy, I can see them, it's friends."
Dog Says: "I Don't Think So, You'd Better Be Careful!"
You say: "I can see who it is, they are friends, you're a good
boy."
Dog says: "Cool! Maybe we'll have tea and biscuits!"
Most dogs are simply not validated for their efforts
at doing their job, and so many problems are a
result of just such misunderstandings.
We have ways of dealing with all kinds of behavior,
those we can observe, as well as those that (in most
cases,) occur when we are not present. Most trainers
agree that you cannot correct your dog after the fact.
Their logic is that dogs can't remember mistakes they
committed earlier, perhaps only earlier today.
If this is the case, then how do you think dogs can
remember a "lost" toy, hidden under a piece of furniture
many weeks after it had gotten misplaced? Do you
really want to believe he cannot remember doing
something mischievous earlier today?
Here are two more misunderstandings about dogs:
"He would never bite." Although most dogs never do
bite, you can never be sure that any dog, no matter
how well you know him, will never bite.
"Wagging tails are an indicator of mood or temper."
Wrong again! You can determine some information
by observing a dog's tail movement, but don't count
on it to tell you about his intent.
Some things you'll be able to determine are how
comfortable he is with the command or situation
he's in. If the tail is kept tightly underneath, this
means he's very uncomfortable, nervous, or scared.
If the tail curves around the flanks when he's sitting
or lying, this shows he's somewhat comfortable.
If it is straight out behind him, this indicates he is
very comfortable and eager to be working with what
we're asking of him. If he is sitting on it, with a slight
curl at the base, this indicates he's in the process of
learning something.
1B. Learn Today!
Today, you will learn to use and become proficient
with the "recall" or "come" command, through the
installation of a conditioned reflex. Conditioned
reflex can be used to teach any command, but for
our purposes at this time, it will only be used for
"recall," or "come," as it is not useful in the
development of higher learning and thought processes.
How Dogs Learn
Dogs can learn and UN-learn any behavior in four
properly conducted repetitions. Taken to its extreme,
these four repetitions should be performed in four
different places with four different but similar situations.
EXAMPLE:
The first time your dog hears a new command,
he probably has no idea what is being requested.
When he hears the command a second time, he
begins to compr ehend.Thethirdtime,hefully
understands, but dogs being dogs, he is going to
resist the new command.
This hesitation is called a learning plateau.
Learning plateaus require a few moments to sort
and file information, not unlike your computer. I
get easily frustrated with these computers, because
unlike humans and animals, I expect a command to
my computer to be followed immediately. But even
at the speed of light, commands need to be sorted
out to go to memory.
Just like your computer asks, "do you really want
to delete this file?" your dog does the same. This
usually happens on the third request, or instance,
of trying to teach or break a behavior.
So, when your dog thinks about the new behavior
being learned or unlearned, praise (non-physical
praise) and patience, are required during the few
moments it takes to correctly file this new information.
However, once again, although your dog may
fully understand what you are trying to accomplish
now that you've demonstrated this behavior three
times, means he's going to try to go against your
desire! His job is to oppose you.
He needs to think things out during the third request.
This moment requires praise, regardless of what
the dog is thinking.
He's going to ponder the idea, then glance at you.
Back to the idea, now thinking of you. Then think
about the idea, and then think about you. Follow
his thinking, and re-enforce it with praise.
Non-physical praise only.
You cannot second-guess what he might be
thinking at this time. Presume nothing. Allow his
choice to dictate your next move. Chances are,
he's going to continue one last try at having his
own way.
There are only two choices he can make. He's
either going to do it correctly, for which you'll
continue praise, and wait for the forthcoming
opportunity to test him out, or, he's going to
do it wrong, for which you'll continue to praise
until you are sure he got it wrong, for which
you'll perform the correct move to re-enforce
the desired behavior, while continuing to praise,
non physical, of course.
Using this system, you cannot go wrong. Simply
praise whatever he might be thinking. This process
of elimination gives us the opportunity to allow your
dog to progress at his own speed. The third time
your dog is given a command, he'll probably do
it incorrectly just to see if you are going to be
consistent. Once that has been done, the fourth
occasion will completely "delete" or "open" the new "file."
2. GETTING STARTED The equipment you will need:
A 6 ft. leather or web lead. Nylon or rope may slide
through the fingers, causing a burn or blister. A
chain may do likewise, and is too heavy, making
the dog feel that you are pulling.
A flat collar.
A twenty-foot lead, long line, or rope.
Four empty but clean soda cans, slightly crushed
so as to be "square" to prevent them rolling and
creating a prolonged sound, with six pennies
inside each, with tape over the opening.
A utility bag for carrying equipment.
Lastly, you'll need an open mind and a desire to
improve the quality of life for your pet.
2A. First Things First: Proper Lead Handling
Failure to handle your lead properly is usually
the first mistake that leads to your next and
more crucial mistakes.
The lead must be handled in a casual and relaxed
manner to avoid transmitting tension and triggering
the opposition reflex in your dog.
Start by opening your hand with the thumb extended
and palm facing you. Hang the loop or handle
over the thumb, and gently close fist around both
lengths of the handle.
Close your thumb down over the second joint of
the index finger. Pull down so the handle is snug
over your thumb as you maintain a gentle grasp
around the handle. This is a safety. If your dog
should pull hard, the handle will not accidentally
slip through your palm.
If it is imminent that you will lose balance and
fall, opening the fist will release you and prevent
a fall.
Next, take the length of your lead, and bring it
upward, placing it under the fingers and in contact
with both sides of the handle in your closed palm.
You should now be able to pull or slide the running
length through the palm to make adjustments. Drop
your arm down to your side. The length should
break just at your kneecap if you're dog were in
the heel position.
Ordinarily, the heel position is with your dog on
your left side, and the lead will be held in your
right hand. Your left hand must never (until you
are trained) hold the lead while in the heel position,
except to collect the length to return it to your
right hand.
The length of your lead shall break just below
your left kneecap. If you need to work your dog
on your right side, or from in front, or at a distance,
the lead will be in your left hand. (If you are going
to heel your dog on your right side, for our purposes,
you will need to make the appropriate adjustments
with regard to left and right signals, turns, etc.
I recommend not doing so at this time, unless
physical needs dictate).
The heel position means your dog's shoulder is
at your knee. It does not matter whether he is
standing, sitting, walking, lying down, or jumping
straight up in the air! In fact, if I could get all of
my dogs to heel while jumping straight up in the
air, I would be ecstatic. If your dog's shoulders
are aligned at your knee and he is facing the
same direction as you, that's the heel position.
Trivial as this may seem, nothing in the Wits'
End Dog Training Method (at this point) is arbitrary.
Pay close attention to the above details. Notice
that the running length of the lead should easily
flow through the closed fingers. The arm should
hang relaxed at your side. Keep your back straight;
don't lean over your dog. The length of the lead
should break at your kneecap.
Never allow the length of your lead to loop over
or between any fingers, as this will create a
block, creating tension in your hand, causing
a bend at the elbow, creating tension on your
dog's collar, triggering the opposition reflex,
thus defeating our method.
There should never be any tension applied to
your dog's collar. A flat collar, one that does not
choke, is required to prevent unintentional
constriction or pulling. If you expect your dog to
try to slip out of his collar, you may "back it up"
with a choke collar to prevent his slipping free.
One word of caution: you should never need to
apply enough tension to cause your dog to back
up and slip his flat collar. Whenever pulling occurs,
just immediately give slack into the lead (without
stepping forward) and follow with "good boy."
Tension on the collar must be released instantly.
If pulling continues, you may need to pull your
dog back just one inch, just enough to gain the
slack necessary to give it back to him, while
praising.
This technique and a practice exercise will be
covered in detail in the trouble shooting section.
Here's a brief aside you may appreciate. Once
in a training session, I was instructing a male
student regarding how to praise his terribly out
of control Cocker Spaniel. He told me flat out
that he could not "do that" (meaning praise his
pet as I requested).
This had happened once before, that a rather
"macho" student of mine refused to follow
directions at the onset of our lesson. As I sadly
began to collect my equipment, I asked, "Why
can't you speak to your pet as I request?" He
lowered his eyes, and mumbled that he just
couldn't talk to his dog "like that."
In desperation I asked, "Well, how do you talk
to your dog?" He said that he had a very special
relationship with his critter, and he always talked
to her in a particularly loving manner. "Show me
how you do talk to her," I said. At this point, he
began a litany of cooing and prose that in
remembrance still causes me to choke with laughter!
I realized then that my concern was for naught,
and my efforts would be valued and appreciated.
So feel free to use your own choice of words for
such commands as "praise," or "take a break,"
"you're free," "back to work," and even other
commands such as heel, sit, stay, etc.
Contrary to customary belief, we know that dogs
do understand words. We do not anthropomorphize
(give human qualities to animals), but we do
recognize a dichotomy of cognitive intelligence
based on our experience and empirical evidence,
versus traditional ideology.
This sets the Wits' End Dog Training Method apart,
for which we will remain eternally grateful. One point
of caution, however: be careful not to use words
such as "O.K." in any command sequence, as it
is so commonly used, you may find yourself
accidentally releasing or otherwise inadvertently
signaling your dog.
2B. What is a Conditioned Reflex?
Dr. Ian Pavlov discovered conditioned reflex in
the first decade of this century. He came upon
this discovery quite by accident while working
with some dogs in an experiment for human psychology.
He noticed that some of the dogs coming to his
research laboratory began to drool in anticipation
of the food rewards that were going to be offered
during his experiment, even prior to entering the
laboratory.
This piqued his curiosity to the point that he
needed to see what was going on. He invited
some dogs to stay in the lab for this study. No
doubt you have heard of "Pavlov's bell."
The dogs were presented with some liver while
a bell was struck. After several occasions of this
conditioning, the bell was struck without the
promised treat.
The dogs naturally got excited anticipating the
liver, and began to salivate (drool). Thus came
the discovery of conditioned reflex.
Conditioned reflex is just that. Conditioning, which
simply put means the same stimuli, presented in
the same manner, so as to be exact; and reflex,
that is to say, a reaction over which one has no
control. Be aware, that in order to meet these
criteria successfully, each element must be
adhered to precisely.
That is to say, the exact same treat presented
with the exact same sound, in the exact same
manner each time. Be aware that we are not
suggesting that you use any food for our
purposes, as it would be contra-indicated.
2C. How to Install a Conditioned Reflex and
Teach Any Command in Minutes
Just as a child steps into the street without being
aware of the meaning of the blast of a car horn,
and continues on his way in oblivion, it takes
experiences to become conditioned. I'll bet that
when you step off of a curb, and hear a car horn
blow, your head spins both ways at once, as you
jump back, looking for the impending accident.
The difference is conditioning.
This is going to require a few minutes of practice,
without the presence of your dogs. It would be
preferable to do this with any family members
available, but may be successfully done alone.
What we need to do is develop a sense of timing.
Here is where the previously called for cans with
the pennies will come in. Have the cans rinsed
clean and dry. Insert six pennies in each can,
tape the top shut, and crush the sides of the cans,
so as to make them square to prevent the cans
from rolling, to avoid creating a prolonged sound.
! Silence is Golden !
It is imperative that you handle these cans silently!
At any time, should these training aids accidentally
create a sound, praise must accompany the event.
This will tell the dog you were not addressing his
behavior, and that he should disregard the incident.
When more than one dog is present, and any dog
is being addressed through the use of sound, each
dog must be individually praised and acknowledged
with direct eye contact and non-physical praise.
Praise Must Always Accompany Sound, with one
exception. That is, when a behavior is being
addressed after the fact. When you have discovered
a behavior that occurred when you were not present,
this would be the only time the sound shall be
presented without verbal praise. The details are
covered later in "using sound to break bad behavior."
To teach your dog the "recall" or "come" command,
we must first create a phrase, and select a "key"
or "cue" word in that phrase. Example: "your dog's
name, come, good boy." In this phrase, we shall
select "come" as our "key" or "cue" word.
The objective is to create a brief sound exactly
on the "key" or "cue" word. The phrase must be
spoken with no pauses, commas, or breaths in
between words. The phrase must be spoken
quickly, in an even-tempered tone of voice.
The sound will be applied ONLY on the KEY or
CUE words ONLY on the second and fourth
requests. In other words, give him the opportunity
to respond correctly on each first request following
a command given with a sound cue.
The second request must be accompanied by
sound. The next request would be treated as a
first request. You'll see later.
The first instance of any phrase you will use
must be presented without the accompaniment
of sound. If your dog should respond properly
to this first request, "your dog's name, come,
good boy," praise him immediately, even before
he begins to move.
Any response, the twitch of an ear or tail, a
shuffle of a foot, a brief glance, any reaction at
all, to any command, always requires spontaneous,
instant, continuous praise, for five to fifteen seconds
or however long your dog is thinking about your
request (even if he' thinking of leaving!).
Continue praising constantly until your dog comes
all the way to you, even if it requires that you
move backward as you continue to speak praise
and coax, even plead or beg, but do not repeat
the command phrase.
As long as you are moving backward and he is
coming forward, he's still coming. In this example,
let's say the dog properly (maybe coincidentally)
performed. However, that does not mean that he
will always respond.
Remember, a conditioned reflex means that your
dog has ABSOLUTELY NO CHOICE BUT TO
RESPOND PROPERLY!
Later, when you are done with all of the intricacies
involved, test it out like this: Find yourself and
your trained dog in a comfortable situation, like
yourself sitting in your easy chair and him
snoozing by the fireplace.
Ask him to come in the proscribed manner. When
he gladly jumps up and sticks his big wet nose in
your face, pat him, and tell him he's free.
Let him resume his leisurely pursuits and call him
again. Repeat this until maybe on the fourth or
fifth occasion that you call him, when he believes
there is no point to getting up and coming all the
way over to you just so you can tell him he's
cool and that he may resume his pursuits.
Just as soon as he refuses your trivial request
to come to you, follow the procedure to make
him come.
Remember: any time that your dog does not
respond the first time you ask him to come,
regard this as a major behavioral problem and
take the appropriate action to remedy the situation
(reinstall the come command as a conditioned
reflex during the FPLX).
So now we must try again to set up the situation
whereby your dog refuses to perform a request.
Once again, repeat your (1st request) "dog's
name, come, good boy." If he does not spin
immediately to respond, instantly repeat the
phrase with the accompanying sound:
*(upper case denotes command with sound,
not shouting. All commands much be given in
an even tempered tone): your (2nd request)
"dog's name, COME, good boy," this time,
using the can, by giving it one brief, hard,
downward shake (not a rattle), and only
EXACTLY on the "key" or "cue" word, in this
example, COME.
Let the sound from the can emphasize your "key"
or "cue" word, not your voice. Your voice must
always be used in a calm, even-tempered, never
commanding or authoritative tone.
If any response at all (even an obvious attempt
to run away) occurs, instant praise, once again,
is required. For this example, let's say your dog
chose to continue away from you.
Immediately repeat your phrase without the
accompanying sound and your (3rd request)
"dog's name, come, good boy." At this point,
you might figure that the dog would not respond.
While this may be so, we do not know for sure.
Observation is required. He may have experienced
the desired conditioning from even just that one
instance of presenting the "key" or "cue" word
in association with the sound.
For this reason, we presented our command on
this, your third request, without the conditioning
sound. If any response occurred, again, even a
seemingly negative response like running further
away, praise is required.
If you're certain your dog is not responding, on
this, his third request, the request will then once
again be repeated, for the fourth occasion, this
time, while presenting the sound from another
direction, preferably beyond your dog, and
exactly timed to occur with the "key" or "cue" word.
SOUNDS MUST NEVER BE REPEATED FROM
THE SAME POSITION TWICE IN SUCCESSION!
In this instance you will repeat the command phrase,
your (4th request) (toss can now) "dog's name,
COME, good boy" and toss your can beyond (not
at, but beyond) your dog, so as to cause the can
to strike the ground exactly on time with the "key"
or "cue" word.
This requires just a little bit of skill, because the
can must be ejected several moments prior to
repeating the command phrase, (because of the
distance), so as to strike the ground exactly at
the same time as our "key" or "cue" word, and
the entire sequence must occur as quickly as
possible, *and, the can must be carefully tossed
so as not to sound accidentally from your hand
while being ejected and you must avoid causing
the can to tumble through the air causing
inappropriately timed sounds.
Yes, I agree, things sounded simple enough until
all of this first and third without sound, and second
and fourth with sound stuff. Relax, we'll try this
again, in "real time," and then you may try to practice
on your own for a few minutes.
Let's run through the command sequence as if
your dog were not cooperating. We'll use UPPER
CASE to denote command accompanied with sound.
Practice this while not in the presence of your dogs.
Read it aloud, and actually using the cans. Set
a target about 10 feet away to practice your throw
on the fourth command. Start now: take a deep
breath, hold it, read aloud: "dog's name, come,
good boy"- (next create sound on COME) "dog's
name, COME, good boy"-(repeat quickly) "dog's
name, come, good, boy"-(toss can now) "dog's
name, COME, good boy." Breathe!
See? It's easier than it sounded the first time.
Try this until you've got the timing down so the
"key" or "cue" words and sounds are in sync.
If any response occurs, instant, spontaneous,
constant praise must follow, until your dog is
close enough to pat. Remember, even begging
and pleading are O.K., as long as you do not
move toward him and you do not repeat the
command.
Repeating commands will cause the dog to
cause you to continue repeating commands.
But are we not repeating the command in the
exercise? Yes, we do repeat the command,
but never without punctuating the command
on its first repetition, which will fix that command
into the reflex system. As soon as the conditioned
reflex is installed, the command may not be ever
needed more than once.
That's it! And it happens that fast!
Over some period of time the conditioning may
deteriorate for a variety of reasons. Sometimes,
calling your dog in a more casual manner might
deteriorate the conditioning.
Not following through with enforcing, or not
properly reinforcing correct performance of the
command could deteriorate the conditioned reflex.
The most common reason would likely be repeating
commands. Dogs thrive on the extra attention,
and will keep you entertained for countless hours,
or for as long as you will repeat commands.
Once any command is issued, it must be completed.
We have a system that will guide your dog's correct
performance, or provide you with a strategic withdrawal.
You are the one in charge; so therefore, you may
change your mind, as you so desire. We'll show
you how to insure that you come out looking smarter
than your dog.
The first time your dog fails to respond properly
to the "recall" or "come " command, regard that
as a major behavioral problem.
Make the effort to correctly reinforce the command
during the ""Family Pack Leadership" exercise,"
explained in detail later on.
Of course, in our last example here, the plan was
to perform the command sequence as quickly as
possible, with no pauses, just as though your dog
were not responding and you were correctly
operating the sounds.
Well, let's continue, and presume that our dog did
not respond after the fourth request. At this point,
your job is to turn and walk determinedly away,
without looking back, speaking continuously and
praising him without breaking your stride, without
looking back, until you can pat him.
You may ask, "What leads you to believe Rover
is going to suddenly respond by following us when
we turn and walk away?" Easy! The training in our
next two exercises is going to instill the concept
in one's mind.
First comes the "Hot and Cold Exercise," which
will get the dog settled and paying attention to you.
Then, the ""Family Pack Leadership" exercise"
which is the single most important training technique
available.
The ""Family Pack Leadership" exercise," combined
with the installation of the conditioned reflex to the
"recall" or "come" command, will give you unimaginable
control of your dog.
You could start with a strange dog, and in fifteen
minutes of work, have him responding just as
though you've been "good buddies" for a "dog's age!"
Once again, things seem simple enough, so we'll
throw in a little extra. Initially, just getting Rover to
come in response to the "recall" command, close
enough to be able to pat him, would seem to be
sufficient.
While that may be good enough for most people,
the Wits' End Dog Training Method promises and
requires strict and exacting discipline. For now,
in this initial phase of training, it would be counter
productive to be any more exacting than to just
be satisfied with a brief pat.
However, after this initial phase of training is
complete (maybe just one session of work, but
do follow directions, and do this four times),
you will be expected to cause your dog to sit
directly in front of you during the "recall" or "come"
exercise.
This will be extremely important in the "big picture."
But, for now, we do not need to be so exact. The
hard part is done!
3. The "Hot And Cold" Exercise
Remember the children's game in which an object
is selected, and the one who is "it" is directed to
find same based on directions of "hot or cold" to
indicate proximity to the object? We are going to
do the same with your dog's attention, with you
being the selected object.
This "Hot and Cold" exercise takes about two
minutes to perform. Done properly, this exercise
will have the effect of shutting off his attention to
anything other than you. This practice should be
used any time your dog becomes distracted or is
not keeping his attention focused on you.
Our objective is to cause your dog always to
have one ear and one eye focused on you. If
this is done correctly, your dog will end up
directly in front of you, relaxed, and waiting for
your next idea.
To begin, ask your dog if he "wants to go to work,"
tell him "good boy," as you show him your lead,
and lean back from him. This will help command
his attention up and toward you, without focusing
on putting on the lead.
We want to be sure not to give the impression that
we're assaulting him with the lead! Bend at the
knees, keeping your back straight as you affix your
lead to his collar, gently talking, but not physically
touching any more than necessary. Tell him he's
a good boy as you head out the door.
As soon as you have cleared the area in front of
your door, come to a halt. As your dog moves
forward and back, around and in front of you,
allow your lead to flow smoothly through your
hands, the free hand reaching out to collect
your lead at its mid point, and place it in the palm
with the handle to keep it out from under your dog's
feet as he moves in towards you, playing it out as
he moves away, collecting it as he returns.
Just get used to the feeling of allowing your lead to
flow through your hands, collecting it again, and
allow it to feed out as your dog moves. Be sure
not to pull or allow tension on the collar.
Do not lean toward your dog or move toward him,
as this will cause the opposite effect, consequently
subordinating ourselves and subverting our efforts.
If your dog looks toward you, you'll tell him he's a
good boy. Always, every time, no exceptions ever,
no matter what, when, or where, if your dog looks
toward you, even a brief momentary glance out of
the corner of his eye, that requires praise.
This rule will never vary. *If necessary maybe
squatting down will bring him in close, but we don't
want to call or force him in.
After just two or three minutes the dog should be
settled and paying attention to you with one eye
and one ear and his tail gently swaying. If this
exercise requires more time, that's fine too. Spend
twenty or thirty minutes in one spot, just calming the
dog and gaining his trust and commanding his attention
through the intermittent praise.
4. The "Family Pack Leadership Exercise" (May
Be Done Solo)
Before starting the "Family Pack Leadership"
exercise, you should perform the "Hot and Cold"
exercise to get your dog's attention focused on you.
Because of its simplicity, the "Family Pack Leadership"
exercise is often discounted or ignored. By the way,
you don't need your entire family to do this exercise.
You may do it with some family members, or even by
yourself.
The "Family Pack Leadership" exercise is equally
important as the "recall" or "come" command.
It is the basis for your total relationship with your
dog, your success or failure as a team, but its
subtlety is deceiving.
It requires about fifteen minutes to perform on
the first occasion, about twelve minutes for the
second occasion, about eight minutes on the
third occasion, and no more than six to eight
minutes on successive occasions.
This exercise must be done with the entire family
on four successive occasions, preferably in four
different locations. (The ideal scenario would be
to perform the "Family Pack Leadership" exercise
four times at the first location, four times at the
second location, four times at the third location,
and four times at the fourth location).
Thereafter, this exercise should be used as needed,
that is, any time your dog seems not to pay close
attention to you, or seems easily distracted, or
any time any behavior problems arise.
It is a good practice to do on a weekly basis (just
once, at one location is fine) after the initial series,
later, on a monthly basis, kind of like a "tune up."
If you've noticed a pattern developing here, you're
right: Dogs learn on the basis of four properly
performed repetitions. These applications should
be performed in four different locations or training
situations.
You are going to be walking with all of the immediate
members of your family, and your dog, in a large
square.
What you will need is an area large enough to
encompass a twenty-foot square area, including
additional space to provide clearance for the length
of your twenty-foot lead. In other words, you will
need a 60'x60' area.
If it is impossible to find such a large area, you
could get by with less space. Once again,
although training should not be conducted in
your dog's own back yard, this exercise and
"COME" ARE exceptions to the rule, but not
for the initial or regular practice.
Do this in your yard after the dog understands
the principles in neutral territory.
Insofar as it is necessary to do these exercises
in his back yard, you will find it counterproductive
if over used.
If you are with the members of your family, gather
in a close-knit group, and proceed to walk as one
unit from your starting point, at the rate of about
one step per second, forward, for the distance of
20 feet.
Do not look at your dog. If he moves along with
you, tell him he's a good boy. Everybody must
speak, all together. If he looks up at you, that
requires praise.
If he does not follow the group, that's fine. Every
time he comes toward the family, praise him.
If he wanders off, that's fine too. As he returns
to you, praise. Turn left at your first 20-foot mark,
and proceed slowly on the second leg of this square.
Each time he looks up at you, praise. If he wanders,
that's fine; do not speak to him unless he is returning
toward the family pack.
Notice where the turns are, and try to find each
corner of this square as you continue walking
slowly to your next corner and turn left again.
As you proceed around this imaginary square,
simply praise him as he returns to the family
pack, and ignore him as he wanders away.
You will notice that as you continue around
this square, your dog will begin to stay closer
to the family pack.
On about your fourth trip around the square,
your dog should be fairly comfortable maintaining
a close proximity to the group.
When this is so, simply come to a halt at any
corner of our square. Face each other, and
speak amongst yourselves.
Your dog should be ignored, unless he looks
directly up at the family, for which praise is
required. If he comes close enough, a pat
would be in order.
Remain at this corner, chatting casually, until
our subject dog joins the group, but for no longer
than two minutes.
When Rover settles next to the family, give him
just another moment or two to get nice and
comfortable. Now, altogether and on cue, without
telegraphing this to our subject dog, move forward
all together, slowly toward your next corner.
As soon as your dog starts to get up to follow,
everyone must sound off with praise, and
everyone must stop praising just as soon as
your dog's attention wanders, or he moves
away toward the end of his 20-foot lead.
As before, come to a halt at your next corner,
face each other and converse casually amongst
yourselves until your dog joins the group, settles,
or gets comfortable, and then as before, move
forward toward the next corner as a group.
Repeat this at each corner. That's it!
Now if you'd like, you can get a jump on the
advanced work in Part 2 by simply walking
as a group to the opposite corner of the
square taking four steps forwards, turn left
for two steps, turn right and continue four
steps, turn left for two, right for four, and
finish up with a 180 degree turn to your left,
and return to the opposite corner in the same
manner, completing that with a 180 turn to
the right.
Now, the reason we covered the "recall" or
"come" command at the very beginning, is
because during the "Family Pack Leadership"
exercise," you will likely have several opportunities
to install the conditioned reflex.
At some point during this "Family Pack Leadership"
exercise, I expect your dog will go all the way off
to the end of his 20-foot lead, and not care to
follow the family or, he may become distracted
looking around at whatever might interest him.
If he gets involved smelling a spot, or looking at
something, and your pack has moved to the point
where your lead is becoming taut, stop.
Do not pull.
Turn facing your dog, and use the cans to condition
him to "come" at this time. One member of the
family should be responsible for working the
command, but every member should participate
with the praise as your dog is coming in on the
"recall."
Also, if it is necessary to back up to help to coax
him to come to you, the entire family should also
participate in backing up.
If these directions have been followed properly,
the obvious difference in your dog's demeanor
and attitude will be stunning.
5. Practicing The "Recall" or "Come" Command
After completing the pre-requisite ""Family Pack
Leadership" exercise, any area is good to
complete training to install this conditioned reflex.
Note: to ensure that the "recall" or "come"
command is properly installed, ideally you should
achieve four perfect recalls on lead during each
training session, in four different locations.
It is vital to achieve this before practicing the
"recall" or "come" command off lead.
The "recall" or "come" command may be practiced
on lead anywhere, off lead in a fenced area, or
inside the house, provided there are no hiding
places that your dog may get into or under....
Let's not defeat ourselves by attempting to do
something prematurely-that is, not properly
installing the command prior to attempting it in
a more difficult situation, or a command we know
he is going to resist, without having done all of
the basics, prior to attempting to tempt fate!
If you know your dog has never come to you
after he has gone under the couch to hide, don't
try calling him out from under there, or even in
that room, because you know that as soon as
you call him, he's going to try to escape to the
security of where you can't get him, until you
have accomplished the preliminaries, and you
know he is properly conditioned in at least four
other places.
Let's say we're dealing with a real sharp dog,
one that knows just how to manipulate each
of the family, one against the other, each in turn.
You know the kind I'm talking about, the one
who's just "so cute," he takes advantage of
any opportunity to get his way, usually ending
with a fight between family members. Got one
like that? Just because we're gentle and humane,
does not mean we can't be vindictive.
Let's get ready to burst his bubble!
Divide yourselves into two groups, equally
divided between those whom he favors. Each
group will have one can, and one person
responsible for operating the manipulation of
the sound cues.
Of course, the person in command will change,
as each individual takes his or her turn. Remember,
it is not necessary to have the person responsible
for issuing the command also responsible for
creating the sounds, unless they are proficient
at this technique.
Using the 20-foot lead, space yourselves 20 feet
apart. Observe carefully to determine which group
should issue the "recall" or "come" command, based
upon whomever he is least attentive towards.
Issue the requests to come as previously described.
In the event we need to pursue this command to its
fourth request, the second group will create the
sound on the fourth occasion, and one and all,
moving together will continue towards the group
issuing the command and lead the dog as a group
toward the individual issuing the command, until
completed upon being petted.
Spend a few moments socializing among you,
as a subterfuge, and then drift apart to repeat
this exercise as necessary.
This will have the effect of putting your dog at
the bottom of the ladder of the pecking order of
importance, and everyone else above, which
will take away his sense of being a peer, or
equal in importance, to any member of your
family.
Once again, as always, successfully repeat this
exercise at least four times with each individual,
and do so in four different places. If these exercises
are done properly, it should feel like you've got a
new dog at home, and he'd feel better fast, knowing
that everyone in his family is an appropriate leader.
6. Teach Any Command Through Conditioned Reflex
Any command may be taught in the same manner
as you have just learned. Don't use this technique
indiscriminately. We can work several commands
at once, but right now while everyone is just getting
familiar with this new approach, and your dog is
still "upside-down" with the changes he's going
through, don't rush.
If your dog is used to being forced and punished,
it's likely to take a few sessions for him to believe
you've really changed your approach, dogs who
aren't used to begin treated gently are not comfortable
offering trust till you've proven your intent. One lapse
of judgement or correction will restimulate all the
previous mishandling and impede your progress.
Here is an example of a commonly desired
command that you will find useful. This example
is meant to more thoroughly show you the concept.
Any command, for any reason, in any circumstances,
can be substituted. But remember, we do not
want your dog to "do things," we want them to
learn things.
Conditioned reflex makes things happen, without
understanding. Use it sparingly, especially at the
beginning.
Let's say you want your pet to go in the other
room. You might select the phrase, "go in the
other room, good boy." You might select the
word room as your "key" or "cue" word.
Present your command in the described manner,
and continue on to your fourth request, and
present your sound appropriately beyond your
dog. At this, move forward while continuing to
praise him as you go into the ordered room,
and thoroughly praise and pat him upon completion.
But what if he did not follow through? Defer to
your "come" command, to which you know he
has been properly conditioned. Upon completing
the "come" command, you should find him there,
in the other room, with yourself.
Now, as you return to where you were when
you first issued your command to "go in the
other room good boy," and you should find
your dog satisfactorily waiting in the other room.
Don't be surprised if you find him right there with
you, in your original places. What went wrong?
Well, if he negotiated his way into the other room,
even if only to follow you on your fourth request,
did he not perform the original command?
Of course he did, but he immediately broke it
when you left that room.
What may be done when your dog breaks his
command? Also, what may be done when your
dog does a behavior you would rather he not do?
7. Use Sound To Break Bad Behavior!
The fastest, easiest, and most effective approach
is to recreate the undesired situation in a controlled
setting, and correctly use sound distractions with
praise to erase the misbehavior.
*Please note: any sound may be used as long
as it is variable in direction, that's why we use
the cans with pennies. The sound doesn't have
to be loud, only noticeable and instantly followed
by prolonged, exuberant non physical praise.
The source of sound must be brief, and you should
be able to present it from different directions on
each consecutive instance. Snapping fingers from
random directions (if you're close to the dog),
followed by praise, will work fine.
You may also use keys or whatever else comes
to mind, only remember that the dog should take
notice of the sound, not be intimidated by it.
If the dog doesn't "APPEAR" to notice the sound,
just follow through as though he did, cause he did if
you created it, and he'll become conditioned if
you simply follow the technique. You're not going
to SEE a lot of what we're working with, just follow
the techniques regardless of what your intuition sez.
Dogs can learn or unlearn almost anything in four
properly conducted repetitions. Taken to its extreme,
these four repetitions should be performed in four
different places, or with different people, dogs,
or whatever the "props" involved may be.
Understanding how dogs think, learn, and process
information is a stretch of the imagination for most
of us. It is obvious that animals know more about
psychology than we do.
They think, have a sense of humor, communicate,
tease, lie, steal, etc., just like any one else. But
they don't think like humans.
Dogs are limited to thinking like dogs. It's your
responsibility to think things out from their
perspective and try to use good judgment.
Be consistent. Dogs get confused if you're not
consistent.
Now that you are getting familiar with teaching
a command through conditioned reflex, you can
use similar techniques to stop or break any
behavior whatsoever.
Using the cans *(or other source of sound so long
as it is brief, and so long as it can be presented
from different directions), on each consecutive
instance, are all that you need to do to break any
behavior.
Simply create the sound, and follow through with
praise! It's that simple. Any behavior can be
stopped or broken, simply by creating a sound,
and praising immediately.
Following the technique for a few successive
repetitions will quickly extinguish the behavior,
not just interrupt it every time it keeps happening.
We're looking for total 100% perfect behavior.
The secret is to allow the undesired behavior to
begin again, and simply present the sound from
another direction, and follow through with praise.
Of course you have to understand how your dog
thinks and learns in order to achieve this successfully.
Each time you create a sound to stop or break a
behavior, you must praise him INSTANTLY and
continue for as long as he refrains from continuing
such behavior (at least until he no longer thinks
about that instance, usually ten or fifteen seconds),
and be prepared to create your sound distraction
and praise as soon as the behavior begins again.
This is the sticking point with so many trainers.
"HOWE COME should I praise this critter if he's
not even doing what I want?"
Remember, dogs do not think in human terms.
Most behavioral problems are simply a failure to
communicate clearly.
This is a scientific conditioning technique, and it
cannot fail if you use the techniques accordingly.
*Of course, you could continue correcting your
dog forever, as most trainers do. We do not
understand HOWE COME a trained dog needs
correction.
If he were trained, that should be the end of the
matter. This would imply that if a trained dog makes
a mistake, that this mistake is probably not an
accident, but rather, a failure of the training
methods used, not a challenge to your authority.
Perhaps this is why so many trainers seem to
enjoy correcting their dogs forever. I suppose
the real reason it is so difficult for us to share
the Wits' End Dog Training Method with other
pet professionals, is because we take all the
satisfaction out of "dealing with" an obstreperous
dog.
The problem is that corrections do not teach new
behavior. Our technique actually deletes errors
in your dog's thinking. It takes only a few moments
of time to permanently cancel or delete a behavior.
Correcting a behavior, rather than deleting it,
takes the entire lifetime of your dog. Make your
choice, to solve behavioral problems permanently
in a few moments, or get the dubious satisfaction
of correcting your dog's behavioral problems each
time they occur, for the entire life of your dog.
When you get tired of correcting, whining, nagging,
and arguing, start reading this manual again, follow
the directions, and change your values.
Change is difficult.
So let's go back to the prior example using the
"other room" command. As you prepare to exit
the room after having shown him the meaning of
your request, create a sound just before your dog
reaches the exit or doorway.
As always, instantly praise him. Continue to exit
the room yourself, and if he continues to try to
exit, create the sound behind him, and praise again.
If he successfully exits the room against your
command, simply repeat the original command
"go in the other room good boy." Of course, this
will be treated as a new request, to be performed
according to the progression of events as required.
In other words, you must pay attention to the last
instance in which sound was used, and try to insure
that in the next instance, the sound comes from
the appropriate source even from day in to day
out, one day to the next, never vary the routine.
In other words, if your dog went into the "other
room" on his first request without sound, perhaps
strictly as a coincidence, then, after you've tried
to correct him from leaving, that instance would
require the application of sound with your next
request, which in actuality, would be his second
request to "go in the other room good boy."
To review:
First request, "Go in the other room, good boy."
Second request, "Go in the other ROOM good boy"
Third request, "Go in the other room, good boy"
Let's say he accomplished the request properly.
When he violates the command, your next request
to send him back there would be, in actuality, his
fourth request, requiring sound on this command.
If you are not thoroughly confused at this point,
I'm surprised. Here's the rest of the secret:
The sequence of events never starts over again,
but always continues from the last instance in
which the sound was used.
It is imperative to try to remember the last occasion
in which your dog was given a command. For
example, let's sa...(message truncated)
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